What tool is needed for wood carving. Sharpening and editing of the tool. Principles of using the tool

24.11.2019

Tools

Before proceeding to this overview chapter, it is necessary to understand especially the safety precautions! Any tool of the carver, be it a chisel, a chisel, and even more so a knife, can be compared with a straight razor in terms of sharpness, therefore, when working with them, safety measures must be observed. During cutting, it is necessary to position the material so that it would be possible to work freely with a knife or chisel, while eliminating the possibility of the cutting edge hitting the hands. For the same purpose, carving with the workpiece on the knees is strongly discouraged. The material to be processed must have its own surface (board, or table).

wood carving, like many hobbies and professions, require the involvement of a large number of tools and material. This includes pocket knives, specialty knives, chisels, semicircular and straight chisels, V-shaped tools, and many other pieces of equipment needed for carving.

Tools is the basis of any technological process and including such creative as woodcarving.

There is no universal tool that can help you create amazing work. However, a thoughtful and wise choice can make the first steps in such an interesting activity as woodcarving easier and more enjoyable.

It often happens that the number and cost of wood carving tools is just intimidating at first, however, over time you will realize that not all tools are expensive, and their number will gradually increase! Gradually, your hobby will be able to generate income and possibly develop into a profession.

When choosing instruments, try to get high quality ones (and these are not necessarily expensive instruments), you will ultimately benefit from your purchase.

Basic cutting set may include several items, using which you can complete most of the clipping (sometimes the entire clipping), these items can sometimes be found at home (carving knives, needle files, chisels, a hacksaw, a medium-sized vice, an emery wheel, an electric drill, various drills and bars)

Wood carving knife at first, you can replace it with a simple one (but made of good steel). The quality of the steel can be checked with a needle file - it should hardly “take” the steel, or slide along it. Subsequently, you can make a carving knife yourself from a hacksaw blade for metal, or purchase a special carving knife in a store. Knives from Narex, Kogatana, Flexcut, Tatyanka can serve as an excellent start.

Flat chisels- for starters, it is possible to sharpen a flat screwdriver, or a file, or purchase it at a store or construction market.

Semicircular chisels- professionals most often use semicircular chisels to work with the material. Depending on the degree of roundness, chisels are divided into sloping, medium and round. In specialized stores, they are sold both in sets and by the piece. Exists a large number of various forms of semicircular chisels used for woodcarving.

V-shaped chisels- are used where it is inconvenient to work flat, as well as for carving triangular and angular shapes.

There is a wide variety spoon cutters, stick cutters, chisels and knives, information about which you can learn from specialized sources if you are seriously engaged in woodcarving.

Although a craftsman's kit sometimes has more than a hundred tools, simple carving often requires a minimum number of tools. So famous in England teacher of carving David Sabol in his book "Wood carving Basic" writes that he uses only the necessary minimum of tools in his work, since a large selection sometimes distracts from carving, while in the same book he stipulates that all new items will sooner or later replenish his collection of tools.

Wood.

The choice of wood is sometimes difficult. Each type of wood has its pros and cons. Soft wood species of linden, aspen, birch are easy to cut, however, crafts made from these types of wood are easier to reject with an awkward cut or pressing. Solid wood of oak, beech, boxwood, mahogany is more difficult to process and here there is a possibility of either tool breakage, for example, with strong pressure, or injury due to the same strong pressure. In any case, when choosing a tree species, many factors must be taken into account. So the size of the craft, its shape, color, what tool you will work on wood.

Birch. Birch wood is very light, easy to cut both along and across the grain, well drilled, good crafts are made from it. However, it is not advisable to use glued birch bars in cutting, since the directions of the fibers will be different, and the craft will not seem solid. Birch wood can warp and darken over time.

For contour and slotted threads Coniferous trees may work well. The wide distance between the growth rings and soft wood (spruce, pine) allow you to apply a large ornament without much difficulty. The disadvantages of pine and spruce, as well as other conifers, include the fact that when carving across the growth rings, the knife (chisel) will seem to jump. The reason lies in the uneven distribution of wood density in the rings.

carving masters often use aspen and linden. The wood of these trees is soft, easy to cut in all directions. Aspen is even more affordable and durable. Although it has more knots.

Beginners can try carving on coniferous trees (spruce, pine, juniper) or use birch, linden, aspen pear; although the final choice of wood is up to you.

The Englishman E. Harris, in the manufacture of the original 13 meter red cedar spoon, spent a week working with a chainsaw, chisels with a mallet. Ordinary craftsmen, for whom carving patterns are a hobby, use a wider range of wood tools. There are hand knives, chisels, cutters, electric, laser engravers, accessories for drills, sharpeners (flexible shaft). In the manufacture of large structural elements of dwellings (columns, beams) with decorative carvings, a chainsaw, a multifunctional power tool, a jigsaw, a reciprocating saw are usually used.

By default, wood is a fairly soft material, so the resource of the tool, taking into account repeated sharpening, is much higher than analogues used in metal processing. When choosing a beginner who is mastering this technology, it should be noted that a high-quality hand tool for woodcarving can cost no less than an electric engraver. A standard set of knives costs 1,500 - 700 rubles, an extended one has a price of 3,000 rubles.

There are different technologies (ornament, animals, relief, applied carving), styles of carvings. For beginners since 1990, the most popular style is Tatyanka, which has several nuances:

work without a stop - the workpiece is not fixed during the cutting process
material without flaws - with the exception of knots specially beaten by the master
texture is not taken into account - soft linden is preferable
storage - boards with incomplete patterns are stored in a wet rag or PVC bag on the balcony (in any unheated room)
tool - radius chisels (number 6, 17), joint knife (blade 1.5 mm, blade width 20 mm, heel angle 45 degrees)

This technology is optimally suited for beginners, since the tool and material have a budget cost.

In addition to these techniques, there are methods:

volumetric carving - small 3D image
openwork decor - the background of the picture is drilled out, cut out with gaps
geometric pattern - deepens into a smooth background
relief - the background is recessed, the picture protrudes above it
flat carving - not a deep designation of the silhouette in the same plane as the background

After some practice, the master chooses a tool that is convenient for him for each technology. For example, a bas-relief can be cut with a chisel, a knife, a drill; to make an openwork composition, you will have to use a jigsaw, drills, and refine the ornament with chisels.

Knives

All woodworking tools of this type have standard numbering, which is quite difficult to understand. You should start with the purchase of standard kits, which are completed by specialists. After acquiring some experience, the master will be able to independently expand the range, depending on the chosen technique, individual genre preferences. The most popular knives of the following types:

Tatyanka - long handle, the location of the bevel of the blade is 2 cm from the hand of the master with a standard upper grip

Bogorodsky - 9 - 7 cm blade for a rough outline, 6 - 3 cm for fine work, semicircular shape, partial sharpening by analogy with a penknife

Jamb - an analogue of a shoe knife with a blade beveled at 45 degrees with one-sided sharpening

In addition to these options, there are hundreds of knives of different shapes and sizes. The leading manufacturers of this tool are the companies:

Flexcut - sets of knives, chisels, mixed type
Frost - in addition to incisors, it produces spoon cutters
Dem-Bart - a manufacturer specializing in tools for decorating stocks
Narex - sets from 4.5 thousand rubles
Petrov and Son - straight knives of five types
Pfeil - Swiss quality, violin, marking modifications, left-hand jambs, netsuke engravers

Knives for woodcarving require sharpening according to technology:

bar - rough, then fine-grained plane (circular, then cutting movements)
fabric skin - sequentially by 320, 400, 600 using the same method
leather belt - with grinding paste-compound

The technology is used after acquisition, with daily editing, the last two points are sufficient, depending on the strength of the wood.

Chisels

Wood tools of this type are straight, angular (V-profile), reverse (convex), curved (radius edge), cranberries. Unlike a cutter, a chisel immediately selects a groove of the desired profile in the wood. Power chisels are tapped with a mallet, manual chisels are designed for manual pressure without shock loads.

Chisels for wood carving from Kirschen and Stubai are considered the best. Any modification (without a handle) of these companies costs from 800 rubles, has a high resource with proper sharpening, which a novice carver will have to learn.

Detailing, sampling of soft wood is best done with budgetary chisels of Japanese manufacturers, firms Pridnestrovie, Korneev. A tool with a short blade is designed for manual work, it is easier to position and control in solid wood. Chisels with a long blade are designed for impact carving.

Power sculptural tools can be distinguished by the thickness of the blade (from 2.5 mm), in unstressed modifications it does not exceed 1.5 - 1 mm. Mushroom-shaped handles are equipped with gravers - you can’t hit them with a mallet, it’s inconvenient to hold with two hands. Working with a chisel requires practice; this type of chisel is used in carving miniatures.

Chisels (like cutters) are not superfluous, they can significantly expand the capabilities of the master. Thus, with a sufficient budget, extended sets are purchased, with a limited one, sets of 5 - 3 items.

There are electric chisels of a battery, network type, in which the equipment is driven by a vibration motor. Tools have a high price (from 15,000 rubles), a set of equipment from 3 bits costs 5-3 thousand rubles.

Tool kits

Facilitates the practice of making patterns with a set of tools for wood, in the kit of which professionals lay several cutters, chisels. The assortment allows you to decorate handicrafts, load-bearing structures of the building, make applied carvings in almost any style. With some success, a firm decision on the choice of this hobby, the master usually buys a few additional chisels, knives in addition.

At the initial stage, it is enough to decide on the type of thread:

in the manufacture of garden sculptures, impact chisels, electric jigsaws are relevant
to decorate the wooden pillars of the gazebo, it is better to choose a milling cutter, a manual disk or reciprocating hacksaw
a manual engraver will allow you to qualitatively decorate platbands, windshields, cornice strips with an ornament
the same power tool can be used to decorate furniture facades
carving on small-format piece products is often carried out with hand chisels, knives, cutters

In any store, instructions for a hand, electric tool, you can get information on the field of application.

Power tool for woodcarving

Unlike chisels, knives, cutters, which allow you to devote every free moment to your favorite business, power tools for wood are energy-dependent equipment. The technology for decorating blanks differs from manual cutting, but it also requires attention, perseverance, and accuracy.

Engravers

Tools for woodworking in the mid-price segment - hand-held engravers with a set of nozzles for roughing, finishing. Most of them are equipped with a flexible shaft (similar to a dental drill), which, if equipped with a drive (drill, screwdriver, grinder), can be a full-fledged power tool for openwork, laid on, curly, ornamental carving.

It is much easier to work with an engraver than with cutters, productivity increases by an order of magnitude. Budget modifications cost from 1.5 thousand rubles, the tool of leading brands has a more complete set of equipment, it costs 10 - 7 thousand rubles.

Flexible Shaft for Wood Carving

This type of woodworking hand tool is available for every budget. For example, Bosch produces a 1.25 m shaft 3500 rpm with a chuck 6 - 1 mm for drills of any manufacturer. The equipment weighs 850 g, costs 2.5 thousand rubles, allows you to make threads of any complexity on wooden blanks and structures.

Wood carving for beginners with this tool is the easiest option for any chosen style. When buying a grinding machine, the budget increases to 5 - 4 thousand, however, the owner gets the opportunity to regularly edit equipment (milling cutters, drills, burs), which is very convenient at home. A flexible shaft is included with most manufacturers of this type of machine.

To perform all types of carving, various elements of home decoration, furniture, souvenirs and other crafts, you need a special tool.

The carving tool can be distinguished as the main (cutting) and auxiliary (for drilling and sawing, carpentry, marking). Also widely used are various electrified household tools and appliances based on an electric motor, which the master can make himself.

All tools must be of excellent quality so that you can easily perform carving work of any complexity.

The cutting tool should be made of good steel, light and comfortable, perfectly sharpened so that the wood is cut like butter, it should be kept in perfect condition.

A blunt tool crumbles, crumples, and does not cut wood, and the cuts and the carving itself look rough and careless. This spoils the mood and often discourages the desire to finish the job. It is easy and pleasant to work with a sharp tool, the drawing is clean, precise, beautiful. By finished product you can always determine not only the skill and handwriting of the master, but also what and how he did the work.

Cutting tool

Bogorodsky knife, used for sculptural carving, takes its name from Bogorodsk sculptural carving.

Bogorodsky knife

joint knife(chamfer sharpening angle 20°, bevel angle 35 0; 45°; 60°), used for flat, flat-relief, embossed, openwork threads.

joint knife

knife cutter- used as an auxiliary tool for various kinds threads.

knife cutter

Chisels straight(sharpening angle 18-20°); are used as an auxiliary tool for various types of threads.

Straight chisel

Chisels semicircular- the main tool used to perform all types of woodcarving. There are: - sloping (R˃H), medium (R=H), steep (R˂H).

Chisels semi-round

Sameski - Cranberries these are chisels with a curved blade that allows, when carving, not to touch the processed plane with the handle. There is a cranberry-flat chisel, a cranberry-corner. cranberry - a semicircular chisel.

Cranberry chisels

Ceraziki chisels resemble steep semicircular chisels. The width of their canvas is 2 ... 3 mm. Designed for cutting thin veins, the sections of which correspond to the profile of the tool.

Cerazik chisel

Chisels - corners or geismus.(angle between cutting edges 50-70°). Used to select a V-shaped groove, used to make contour thread elements.

Corner chisel or geismus

Stichel. Stichels always have a bend angle of 15 degrees. Their handles are most often in the form of a fungus.Used to sample various veins in the manufacture of engravings.

Stichel

Klepiki. Rivets come in a variety of sizes, but they have only three forms of sharpening: a sword, a leaf, and a nail. The first two are called so: rivet-sword and rivet-leaf.

They are used in flat-relief and three-dimensional carving for cleaning the background in hard-to-reach places.

Klepik-sword, Klepik-leaf

Chisel-nail. Marigolds differ from ordinary rivets in the form of sharpening. She looks like a fingernail. The purpose of nails is cleaning in hard-to-reach places and making stapled thread elements.

nail chisel

Spooners(spoon knives). The best spoon holder is a sharpened ring with a bar welded to it. Spooners needed to remove large volume material in the recesses and for processing the inner walls in the manufacture of dishes.

Spooners

Punches and stamps- these are steel rods with a pattern at the working ends. They are most often used for chasing the background in flat-relief and relief carving.

The cutting tool is made of tool steels:

1-Carbon (U10; U12; U10A; U12A), when sharpened, they are determined by a white beam of sparks with separate stars.

2-alloyed (XB5; X12; Ch12M), when sharpened, they give yellow or orange sparks.

3-High-speed steels (P18; P9), when sharpened, they give dark red sparks.

Tool sharpening and dressing

Proper sharpening of the tool is of great importance for high-quality wood carving.

Tool sharpening consists of two stages:

1- chamfering;

2- edits.

1. Chamfering. The chamfer can be removed on an electric grinder (see fig.), a grinder with a manual drive or manually on an abrasive block.

An electric sharpener for sharpening and straightening tools: a - a mechanized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, straightening and polishing tools: 1 - movable stop; 2 - felt circle; 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; b - movable stop device;: 1 - horizontal movement lock; 2 - movable platform for choosing the angle of sharpening; 3 - bolt - vertical movement lock; c - a device for straightening and polishing a tool (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 rubber wheels with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft.

The location and movement of the tool during sharpening is shown in the figures.

Chamfering: a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; in - on chisels-corners: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer.

The position of the chisel during sharpening: 1 - straight chisel; 2 - semicircular and sloping; 3 - chisel - corner;

When sharpening it is necessary:

Maintain the specified angle of sharpening;

To maintain the shape of the blade, the chamfer should be even without traces of curling;

Blueing of the instrument is not allowed (prevent by periodic wetting of the instrument in water).

2. Edit. Under the editing of the tool is understood to increase the purity of sharpening the blade, deburring, improving sharpening. To edit the tool, microcorundum whetstones (Fig.), skins, and leather are used.

Sharpening a joint: a - sharpening parameters: 1 -

chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel;

b - the position of the hands at work;

For semicircular incisors, a dressing board is made of linden, cuts on its surface are transverse grooves for incisors of different sizes (Fig.).

Dressing boards and belts

1 - board with a set of profile bars and whetstones;

2 - dressing board with chisel profiles;

3 - leather or canvas belt for straightening.

Before editing, GOI paste is rubbed into the dressing board. The inner surface of the semicircular incisors is ruled by round wooden twigs wrapped in fine sandpaper or leather rubbed with GOI paste. You can edit the instrument on a rotating felt wheel rubbed with GOI paste.

A properly sharpened tool must have a specified sharpening angle, blade shape, and no burrs.

When cutting across the grain of a pine or spruce board, the cutter should leave a clean cut without breaking the grain.

Literature:

1. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N.

House carving-M.: Niva Rossi together with the Eurasian Region Company, 1993-352 p.

2. Vetoshkin Yu.I., Startsev V.M., Zadimidko V.T.

Wooden arts: textbook. allowance. Yekaterinburg: Ural. state forest engineering un-t. 2012.

Wood carving requires not only skill, but also special tools. Some of them are well known to everyone, but there are also specific ones that are used exclusively for this species. folk art. Let's try to figure it out and present you with the main types of tools that you will need if you want to try your hand at woodcarving.

As the masters themselves note, there is no clear and unified classification of instruments. Moreover, in different descriptions there are different names for the same type of instrument.

Knives

The main type of tool that is actively used during woodcarving is a knife. However, there are several types of them, which differ markedly both in purpose and in appearance.

They feature a bevelled blade with a cutting angle of up to 60 degrees. Jambs are applied in the process relief carving to cut straight long lines. Jambs can also be used to process the side walls of existing grooves and to fold the contour.

Knives-cutters. They are also called cutters or simply knives. All have a 35-degree cutting angle, but shape and size may vary. Carvers consider such knives to be the main tool, each master has his own favorite knife, which he can consistently use for many years.

Allocate also Bogorodsk knives and tatyanka. The name comes from the village of Bogorodskoye, famous for its wooden toys of the same name. Bogorodsk knives can have a different blade size, which varies depending on the subtlety of the work. Tatyanka is just a kind of Bogorodsk knife with a longer handle, which ensures maximum transfer of the master's efforts to the cutting edge. Used for power carving.

For novice wood carving lovers, according to experts, a ready-made set of knives is suitable. You should try your hand, in fact, figure out which knife it will be more convenient for you to work with, so such a kit at the first stage is the best choice.

Chisels

In woodcarving, various chisels are also actively used, of which there are also many types.

They are flat and easily recognizable. Used in the process of leveling flat surfaces and for cleaning.

Semicircular chisels. Happen most different size- from large to tiny. A semicircular chisel can change both the bending radius and the height. Semicircular chisels are used for classical volumetric carving, but can also be used during flat-relief carving.

Cerazik. If a semicircular chisel has a height much greater than the bend radius, it is commonly called a cerazik.

Chisels-jambs. It is applied for geometric carving, blade cut is 45 to 70 degrees.

Cranberry chisels , they are cranberries. This is another type of semicircular chisel with a curved blade. The width of the canvas is from two millimeters, and the bends in one direction or another are 120 degrees. Cranberries are used to deepen the background, cut curly surfaces, process bulges.

Corner chisels. Widely used to create narrow grooves and lines in wood. They are also called geismus or eismus. The best bend angle of the master is called 45 degrees.

Spooners

As the name implies, this tool is used when cutting wooden spoons and other utensils, but can also be used where a round or semi-circular hole needs to be cut in wood. Spooners can be different, there are two main types - with a curved blade and circular. Masters believe that the best spoon-maker is just a sharpened ring, to which a metal rod with a handle is welded.

Stichel

They differ from chisels in a mushroom-shaped handle, it is more convenient to work with it when you need to cut a thin line with force. For wood carving engravers, the bend angle is always 15 degrees. Note that the same tools for carving metal and bone look completely different. Gravels are used in different types carvings and with different purposes.

Auxiliary tools that are used by master carvers include nichrome wire and a pattern. Nichrome wire is needed for burning, if it is strongly heated, it easily burns through thin lines, cuts out the smallest patterns and details. The template is familiar to all draftsmen, it is a convenient and easy way to outline a pattern on wood for further carving.

We emphasize that real professionals who have been carving wood for many years usually do not use ready-made tool kits. Masters choose each tool for themselves, often they make it themselves for a particular type of work. But for beginners, as we already wrote, the purchased set will become the best option. Then, already in the process of work, we are sure that you will perfectly understand what's what and will be able to create your own kit for carving wooden masterpieces.

All novice carvers ask: “What tools do I need first of all?” First we need a small number of tools. Instead of buying a complete set of cutting accessories, purchase tools as you need them. Usually when you buy a set, you don't save a dime, but there are always things that you almost never need. Get the most tools best quality which you can afford; good, sharp high-carbon steel tools will last you a long time and save you money.

Knives

You will need good knife- the one that will be comfortable to work with. There are three types of knives - with a folding blade (pocket knife), with a fixed blade and knives with a replaceable blade. I prefer fixed blade knives because they are the safest. Knives also vary in blade shape and steel type.

I recommend a high carbon steel blade with a hardness of 55 to 60 RC - it will stay sharper longer than a stainless or low carbon steel blade. For finishing and shaping, I use a blade that is 4 mm thick and 3.8 to 5.1 cm long. A knife with a narrower and shorter blade is better for detailing. Some cutters prefer knives with interchangeable blades, because instead of sharpening the knife, it is enough to simply change the blade. Another advantage is that that the handle of such a knife can be used with small chisels.

Chisels

Chisels come in different widths and curvature. Curvature is indicated by a number. The steeper the curvature, the larger the number. So, chisel number 3 is almost flat, and number 11 has a U-shape. Of course, a number 10 or 11 chisel cuts deeper and removes more wood than a number 3. On the other hand, a number 3 chisel is handy for finishing. The angle chisel with number 12, which has a V-shape, is characterized by a wide range - from 24 to 90 degrees, but chisels with an angle of 60 to 70 degrees are most common.

When choosing a chisel, pay attention to the handle so that the tool does not roll onto the floor when you put it on the table. Otherwise, you will constantly have to repair the blade.

When choosing a chisel, also keep in mind the size and type of carving you want to make. For self made palm-sized chisels are more suitable, and even smaller tools will be needed for small parts. Sculptural and relief carving involves the use of standard chisels with heavy handles.

Saws

Carvers use saws of various types depending on the task, but the most commonly used bow saw ("snake").

It includes a replaceable high carbon steel blade mounted on a steel frame with a handle. A bow saw can be used to draw narrow, curved lines, although a fair amount of patience is required to prevent the blade from breaking or warping. The saw is also used to remove excess wood.

Special tools

The scraper is used for removing bark and for quick, rough removal of excess wood, as, for example, when working on furniture. The spoon knife has a double-edged round blade, ideal for making spoons, cups or masks.

Abrasives

Files and rasps remove excess wood quickly and smoothly. They differ in the nature of the surface, which can be rough, medium or relatively smooth. Always use flat, semi-circular or round tools with a handle. Files and rasps of the riffler type have teeth on both ends and a variety of shapes. They are used to penetrate hard-to-reach places and remove small chips. Tools with a rough surface are used for cleaning small areas.

The flexible sanding belt is useful when working on curved surfaces. Grinding cylinders as part of a hand drill or press are indispensable for final finishing. Polishing tools vary in surface texture and material nature to meet a wide range of requirements. Sandpaper should only be used at the end of the work, otherwise the abrasive particles will get stuck in the wood and your tools will quickly become dull.

electrical tools

When you start making blanks yourself, you will need a band saw. A huge selection of blades will allow you to easily make the most difficult cuts, far surpassing anything that can be done with a bow saw. An openwork saw will help to process the inner surface, but not every tree can handle it. Belt and disc sanders are good for both finishing and bark removal. Many carvers use rotary tools with a wide range of heads to work on details such as feathers. There are hand grinders and small high speed cutters. There are also at least four types of electric chisels with reciprocating motion that allow arthritis sufferers and people with tennis elbow to enjoy carving.

Strengthening devices

If you are holding the workpiece in a vise, choose a tool that does not leave marks on the workpiece (or insert some material between the workpiece and the vise). To attach the workpiece to the workbench, I often use a six-millimeter capercaillie and a wing nut. If you are a beginner, you can wear a steel wire glove to protect your hand.

I have an old friend, also a carver, who puts on a heavy leather apron when working towards the chest. When finishing or dyeing the product, you can use an awl or a dye stick.

SUPPORT

To better hold the workpiece when you cut a tree with a “snake” saw, I advise you to use a support - an ordinary board that supports the wood during sawing. Simply attach it to a workbench or table and hold the saw vertically in the V-shape as you cut the workpiece.

BENCH VICE

If you plan to do relief carving, I suggest you also make a simple bench vise. One terminal holds the vise from below in a fixed position, while the angle formed by the other two from above prevents your product or workpiece from slipping out of your hands during operation. Attach a bench vise to your work surface.

Accessories

Electric burn-out tools can be used for coloring the product, giving texture, as well as for signing the work. In this case, you will need a dust mask and a vacuum cleaner. You also need artist's tools and various brushes if you want to cover the product with paint or varnish. To transfer the pattern to the workpiece, I advise you to use tracing paper or copy. A good light source and a magnifying device are essential when performing fine detail work.

Instrument Care

You should periodically inspect your tools, wipe them with an oiled cloth so that they do not rust. Store your tools in their individual compartments or wrapped in cloth to protect them and reduce the time spent sharpening.

TOOL SHARPENING

Keep your tools sharp at all times, and pause to sharpen from time to time. All the carvers I know have developed their own dressing system; everyone found his own procedure, convenient for him personally. Some use whetstones with oil, others with water, and still others use electrical devices.

The first step is to sharpen the blade with a fine-grained abrasive, such as diamond grit or sandpaper. First, one side is processed until burrs appear on the metal, then the other. At the next stage of editing, the surface irregularities that arose at the beginning are eliminated. In conclusion, the blade should be polished to a mirror finish with a special compound, reducing friction between the blade and the wood.

How can you tell if a blade is sharp enough? Take a piece of scrap wood and run your knife across the grain. If an even mark remains, then the blade is sharp. If the fibers stick out in different directions and the mark is rough, then you need to sharpen the blade more.