Timelapse is one of the genres of videography, the essence of which is a noticeable acceleration of slow processes that are invisible to the human eye. Many individual frames taken at the same interval from one point are glued into one video. Because of this, the lengthy process is reduced by at least an order of magnitude!
Initially, the technique of interval shooting was used in science. A little later, she gained popularity among professional photographers. Long preparation, painstaking shooting and time-consuming editing of the finished result - this is how one could describe the process of producing time-lapse video a few years ago. Today, due to the rapid development of mobile technology, it all comes down to installing a special application on a smartphone and finding an idea!
What is required to create a video?
Well-prepared equipment is half the success! First of all, we need a smartphone. Any Android device is suitable, an important condition is good camera. The quality of the final video depends on it, which is especially important when shooting in low light conditions.Time lapse means getting all the frames from one point, the camera must be fixed, even the slightest movement is unacceptable. A tripod is the most convenient way to mount your smartphone. We talked in more detail about tripods and their use in mobile shooting in. Alternatively, you can mount your smartphone using a regular car holder, which every car enthusiast can find. This method is not universal, but shooting time-lapses with a view from the window is suitable. Be careful, glass suction cups tend to fall at the most inopportune moment - secure your smartphone. In addition to car holders, a variety of stands and docking stations are also suitable. The main condition is the ability to place the device horizontally.
Before shooting, do not forget to prepare a smartphone. First of all, make sure that there is enough space in the device's memory to record a video. One minute of HD-quality video takes up about 100 MB of disk space - a ridiculous amount for our time, free up memory with a small margin.
The second detail is food. Shooting video is an energy-consuming process, charge your smartphone battery in advance. Better yet, use a stationary power supply, or an external battery in the field.
In addition, do not forget about the weather conditions. Shooting in direct sunlight in calm weather may cause overheating and damage the device. Unexpected rain will also be a surprise! Choose a shaded, windy spot. If rain is forecast, take care to protect your smartphone.
The application interface is completely Russified. The main menu is divided into three tabs, in addition to the videos you shot, the best time-lapse videos from YouTube are aggregated in a separate section - a great place to find inspiration!
The application supports two modes. The first of them - Photo Lapse (Photo Lapse) is useful when you need to demonstrate how the subject changes over a long period of time. The video is edited from many individual frames taken at intervals of from a day to a week. At the same time, it is important to take photos from approximately the same point so that the photo lapse does not turn into a slide show of frames that are not connected to each other. Using this technique, you can demonstrate the change in the physical shape and appearance of people in dynamics: weight loss, the result of gaining muscle mass, pregnancy, growing up. In addition, the technique will be useful for demonstrating the construction process, plant growth, and so on. For convenience, the application will automatically remind you of the next frame depending on the selected interval.
The second mode is Video Lapse, at first glance the interface resembles a regular video recording. The key difference lies in the additional settings. The application allows you to adjust the resolution, all modes that the smartphone records are supported. Frame interval in the range from 0.1 seconds to 60 seconds, acceleration by 3 and 1800 times, respectively. The shooting duration is up to 12 hours, the application does not calculate the duration of the finished video in advance, you have to figure it out in your mind. After recording starts, the display brightness is reduced to the minimum setting to save power and avoid overheating.
Framelapse- an alternative to Time Spirit. The most downloaded timelapse recording software on Google Play.
The application is not Russified, while the interface is simple and understandable even without knowledge of English language. The main menu is the viewfinder window, no additional actions, launched and immediately started recording.
Like the previous program, Framelapse records videos in all supported resolutions. The highest possible resolution is marked as Recommended. The interval between frames is set from 0.1 seconds to 60 seconds. It is possible to pre-set the duration of the finished video, the informant on the main screen will notify you of the time required for recording. Among other things: a timer, autofocus mode change, white balance adjustment, various effects and manual exposure compensation.
A special mode helps to automatically calculate the interval between frames depending on the selected recording duration and the finished video. This function It is declared in the PRO version, but for some reason it works in the free version.
If, when creating a time-lapse, the wrong interval between frames was selected or the finished video lacks contrast, you will have to edit the source material. One of the lightest video editors for android - ActionDirector from Cyberlink.
The application interface looks neat, not overloaded. Unfortunately, the menu is not Russified, but mastering the program will not cause difficulties, each function is indicated graphically.
I conditionally divide time-lapse shooting into three stages:
The shooting itself
Processing photos in the editor
- "Assembly" of the video
.
Equipment needed for filming
1. This is primarily a SLR camera. Some cameras have a built-in timelapse feature, if yours has one, you're in luck.
If you do not know if you have such a function, you should read the instructions. If your camera does not have such a function, then you will need a device called an intervalometer (in everyday life, a remote control with a timer).
2. Intervalometer allows you to shoot a series of frames at a certain time interval. There are many different models for different camera models, they can be purchased at almost any photo equipment store or ordered online.
Since I myself shoot with a Canon Mark3 and Canon 40D, I can recommend a remote control for such cameras (see figure below)
Similar remotes are available for other SLR cameras.
When choosing a remote control, you should make sure that it fits specifically with your camera. Also make sure that the selected remote control has a timer for interval shooting.
3. The hydraulic level cube is very convenient and allows you to quickly set the camera to a horizontal position 
4. You will also need a memory card of a sufficiently large capacity - 32GB - 64GB with a high write speed.
Make sure the battery is fully charged before shooting. Use a battery grip if possible.
And of course you will need a tripod. Where without him!
Shooting
How to shoot?
You need to start learning how to shoot a time-lapse with something simple - a landscape with floating clouds, cars driving along the road, a city street with pedestrians.
Do not try to shoot complex scenes with a fast-paced plot, or sunset or sunrise at once.
Think over the plot, choose a location for shooting.
Avoid shooting from bridges. Passing traffic shakes the bridge, and with it the tripod and the camera.
After you have focused on some object, you need to turn off autofocus, because otherwise there is always a chance that the focus will go wrong during shooting, and all the work will go down the drain.
The exposure (shutter speed and aperture) is also set in the M (manual) mode.
Sometimes, despite the fact that all parameters are set in manual mode, the finished video still flickers noticeably. This is due to the difference in the illumination of the frames. Each time a picture is taken, the aperture closes to the set value and then opens fully. However, the camera mechanics cannot set exactly the same values, and therefore the resulting frames, although they differ in illumination only slightly, are quite enough for the flicker effect to occur, which is called flicker - (from the English flicker - “blink”). There are several ways to solve this problem. You can shoot wide open, or use old lenses with an aperture ring, and you can also get rid of flicker in post-processing.
For Canon SLR cameras, the flickering problem can be successfully solved as follows:
We put the camera on a tripod, set up all the parameters, focus the camera on the subject, then very carefully so as not to touch the focusing ring of the camera, switch the lens from AF to MF (manual focus) and unscrew the lens halfway (just enough to break the electric camera contact)
Be careful not to drop the lens, and after shooting, do not forget to fix it properly again.
Since the process of shooting time-lapses is not fast, depending on the settings, we go to drink coffee, smoke bamboo or go fishing.
Important.
When choosing a composition, do not forget that part of the image in the final video will be cropped in height (see the figure below)
This is due to the fact that the aspect ratio of the video is 9:16, and the SLR camera shoots 2:3 
How to choose a shooting interval?
A very important question - with what interval to shoot.
It is impossible to give a definite answer. It all depends on the conditions and subject of shooting.
If these are slowly moving clouds on a bright day, the interval can be 1-3 seconds. In the photo with the aurora (see above), the interval is 6 sec.
In each case, the interval must be selected empirically.
Experiment!
However, some recommendations can be given. To begin with, remember that modern video uses a frequency of 25 (30) frames per second.
To shoot 10 seconds of video, you need to take 250 frames. Let's say we want to shoot a 1 hour story and insert it into a 20 second video. It is easy to calculate the interval using the following formula: (action time / video time * number of frames per second), i.e. 3600 / (20x25) = 7.2.
Do not make the interval too long, otherwise the video will be implausible, choppy. When setting the interval, you should take into account the rate of fire of your camera and the speed at which photos are written to the USB flash drive. It is rare that a camera can shoot at 1fps in RAW.
Important.
The shooting interval must not be shorter than the shutter speed.
That is, if you have a shutter speed of 1/250 - the interval can be 1 second (intervals shorter than 1 second are not set on programmable remote controls)
But if the shutter speed is 1 "6 sec, then the interval must be set no shorter than 2 sec
Treatment
After you have shot the required number of frames, the question arises - what to do with all this happiness?
It is necessary to bring the captured photographs to the condition.
I myself shoot in *RAW and after shooting I process photos in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. There are other programs where you can also batch process photos, but this is already a matter of taste.
I like Adobe Photoshop Lightroom because it allows you to process one photo, and then copy all the changes to the rest.
When converting photos from *RAW to *JPG, it makes sense to leave the original size - this will allow you to pan or zoom the image later when editing the video.
"Assembly" of the video
There are many programs for "gluing" photos into videos.
I like Adobe After Effects more - fast, convenient, efficient. You can apply titles, effects, use various filters, and more.
After starting the program, the following window will open (see the figure below)
If the picture is different, you can go to Windows->Workspace and click on Reset "Standard"
Load ready-made photos into the program: File->Import->File... 
We choose a photo. Make sure JPEG Sequence is checked 
After uploading photos, select Competition > New Competition, and in the options window that opens, set the name of the composition, resolution, and frame rate - 25 fps 
AURORA-01 will appear in the Project window - this is how I named the composition I just created. Select the photo and hold down the left mouse button and drag it into the Composition window 
and call the menu item Composition->Make Movie, or just press Ctrl+M.
The Render Movie tab is activated,
Next, click on lossless, opposite the output, the settings window will open 
In the window that appears, expand the list of Formats, select QuickTime
In Formats Options, in the Video codec list, select photo-jpg
Quality 80-90% 
Click OK and OK again
In the Output to: item, click on the file name and in the explorer window that opens, specify where and with what name to save our video.
Then press the Render button 
Voila! Ready!
If you have any questions - ask, we will try to answer them.
What could be more interesting than a long period of time turned into just a couple of seconds of video? Dynamics, colorfulness, quick change of perspectives - this is all about Time Lapse, and today we will tell you how to shoot it correctly!
When purchasing a camera, from a consumer's point of view, we always want as much as possible from our gadget: more options, higher resolution, improved stabilization, and of course, the presence of interesting accessories, such as a time-lapse timer, ND filters to make it look cinematic, and much more. The GoPro brand fully meets these requirements, meets all expectations and even more.
Time Lapse is an option that has been worked on very well - the GoPro camera is fully adapted for this mode. In this review, we will analyze how to quickly activate this mode and select the desired settings using the GoPro HERO6 Black as an example.
Step by step instruction in 4 steps
1. Tap anywhere on the screen to display the menu icons on the screen. Then, in the lower left corner, click on the “Modes” icon.
2. In the upper right corner of the screen, click on the “Time Lapse” icon and select “Time Lapse Video” from the drop-down menu.
3. Install desired resolution, interval and viewing angle using the buttons located at the bottom of the main screen. 
4. Use the record button to start and stop shooting
An example of shooting Time Lapse video on GoPro HERO6 Black in 4K resolution
Additional Time Lapse Modes
In the second paragraph above, we mentioned that you need to select "Time Lapse video", and this is really the most optimal and common mode of Time Lapse operation. But there are also others, now we will briefly talk about them.
- time lapse video- the camera takes a whole series of photos at a certain interval, then combines these frames into a video file.
- Time Lapse photo- the principle of operation is very similar: the camera takes photos at a certain interval, but does not combine them into a video. The main difference is that not a video file will be saved on the memory card, but a series of high quality photos. Each of them can be used separately, or, again, manually glued together in Time Lapse video during post-processing.
- Night Lapse photo - works the same as Time Lapse photo, but all settings are adapted for shooting in low light.
Resolution for Time Lapse
You can select 4K, 2.7K 4:3 and FullHD (1080p) for time-lapse shooting. There is no audio recording in Time Lapse. The sound during fast shooting will be distorted, and the voice will sound like if you breathe in a helium balloon, and very quickly!)
Shooting interval
In other words, the amount of time that must elapse between each frame. When it comes to HERO6 Black, you can set the default settings - 0.5 (half a second), or 1, 2, 5, 10, 30 and 60 seconds.
Short intervals, like 0.5, are great for shooting streets and cities, and in general in all places where there is a lot of movement.
Longer intervals are best used if you want to shoot a sunset, or something very long. A great example is the construction of a house - a project that takes days, but on video it all fits in a few minutes.
FOV for Time Lapse (FOV)
These settings control how wide the camera will cover the scene. We can say that it is like changing the lens of a classic camera: wide angle lens shoots much wider than a portrait lens, only in GoPro cameras it happens with the help of digital technologies.
GoPro defaults to "Wide Angle" and that's the thing about these cameras - to shoot with a fisheye effect. And for filming in 4K, this is the only affordable option. At lower resolutions, you can use the digital zoom to get the angle of view you want.
Rotary Time Lapse Timer
Imagine a static Time Lapse video where the scene slowly rotates in a certain direction as the shooting progresses, thereby opening up the frame more and more. This accessory will definitely decorate Time Lapse even more.
The principle of operation is very simple: the camera is fixed on the site and shooting starts, then the device makes a full turn of 360 degrees for 60 minutes, ensuring smooth and measured movement of the camera without any jumps. It’s impossible to record such a Time Lapse by hand - the frame will constantly twitch.
You can talk about the time-lapse timer for a long time, but it will be easier and clearer to show. Watch the video below to see for yourself what kind of shots you can get with it.
Shoot a time lapse that will be different good quality, is very difficult. But we have prepared an article that tells you everything you need to know if you want to get a great recording. We'll explain what timelapse is, how and when to use it, tips for getting the best results, and how to get it right. iPhone.
What is timelapse?
Time lapse is one of the video shooting options that appeared in iOS 8. Recording is carried out with a very reduced number of frames per second. Usually this value is only two frames per second, although the exact figures depend on the length of the final recording. When playing the video is accelerated to thirty frames per second, which allows you to watch it like any other.
This technique is great for shooting large static subjects and environment that change gradually over a long period of time. timelapse great for recording the sun moving across the sky, opening flower buds, or creating stylized music videos in crowded areas.
How to switch to timelapse mode
To enable the time lapse mode, you need to go to the camera app and scroll the menu to the left until this feature becomes available. As soon as the timelapse is activated, you will immediately notice that the screen has changed - it has a red record button, surrounded by a timer, indicating that you are recording. Just press this button to start recording, and a second press will stop it.
When you play a video recorded in time lapse mode, it is the exact opposite of a time lapse recording, as in The Matrix, for example. When using slow-mo, the number of frames per second is deliberately increased, becoming much more than is required for normal shooting. Therefore, when playing in normal mode, when the number of frames per second is correctly perceived by the human eye, the scene is stretched over a longer period of time, which makes all objects look slow. Timelapse records at approximately one frame per second, so when played at thirty frames per second, you'll flash through recorded minutes or hours in as little as thirty seconds.
Which Apple devices support timelapse?
Every device running iOS 8 is capable of recording time-lapse video. That is, this list includes:
iPhone 4s and above;
iPad 2 and above;
iPad mini and above;
iPod Touch 5G.
Do not think that the longer you record, the longer the video will be.
We found that recording for a long time did not increase the overall length of the final recording. You'll also notice when using the timelapse feature that most videos fit within twenty to forty seconds, no matter how long you've been recording before. In fact, this is a very useful feature that allows you to avoid overflowing the smartphone's memory during the recording process. But this also means that even if you record video forever, the output will still be a maximum of a couple of minutes of recording.
According to the data posted on the website Apple, the number of frames per second is directly related to the time that was spent recording. The longer you record video, the fewer frames will be captured in each second. This will allow you to achieve a more noticeable acceleration effect when playing at normal speed of thirty frames per second.
So, if you recorded less than ten minutes, then the smartphone will capture only two frames per second. Accordingly, when playing at normal speed, a fifteenfold acceleration occurs. As soon as the ten-minute mark is crossed, your iPhone will cut off half of the frames recorded earlier and continue to capture what is happening at a rate of one frame per second. So from now on, the acceleration will be thirty-fold. The number of frames drops again when it reaches the mark of forty minutes and at hour twenty.
The recording will be much smaller in terms of memory space, but you should not expect it to be almost invisible and light. So the smallest clip, which lasts only ten seconds, takes up 4.2 MB, but a recording that lasts thirty-one seconds takes up 75 MB of free space.
Apple claims that users can shoot a time-lapse for up to thirty hours. We have not tried to repeat this result, but we are confident that the final recording will be at a maximum of one frame per twenty minutes.
Time Lapse Recording Tips for iPhone Owners
We have also prepared a set of simple but extremely useful tips, which will help you shoot high-quality and using iPhone for this.
1. Hold your iPhone steady
When you record, try to keep your smartphone as stable as possible. We recommend placing your device on a static stand or tripod instead of using your own hand. This will avoid shaking that can spoil the video, as well as severe fatigue that will not keep you waiting - after a few minutes from the start of shooting, your hand will ache from the weight of the smartphone.
2. Use contrast
The best results are obtained when you can capture the difference and contrast between moving and static objects. So with a smartphone, you can record people crossing a busy intersection, or put the device on a table, where it will catch everyone who passes by on business.
The key to a successful result lies in the correct placement of the smartphone. He must look at stationary objects, past which moving objects pass. So, for example, it's a good idea to write timelapse in a museum where people look at paintings and other works of art.
3. Record movement
The complete opposite and alternative to the previous advice - try to record the movement. For example, fixing a smartphone on a special fastener in a car gives a good result. After that, you can record the process of a trip in the city or, which will look very good, outside it.
This approach does not work so well when it comes to walking. The first reason for a bad timelapse is that the smartphone is constantly shaking and shaking, which completely eliminates its stability.
It is also worth noting that if you record people around, then it is as slow as possible. Remember that even the smallest and slowest movements will be sped up dozens of times when you turn on the final recording. best advice will, if you rotate the iPhone during the shooting, do it very, very slowly.
The best time lapse is obtained when a slowly changing object is recorded. The advantage of this type of shooting is that a boring thirty-minute video of the rising sun turns into a fast-paced thirty-second clip. In the same way, you can write down a flower that opens at dawn, or a burning candle - in general, everything that changes gradually and slowly.
Timelapse allows you to get an interesting result where you cannot see it with your own eyes when viewing the recording in real time.
5. Ask your subject to move slowly
If you want to capture a person in motion, then for best results, ask him to move as slowly as possible. When an object does something too fast, you will only get a few - one or two - frames covering the entire action. However, you can use this to your advantage by getting a Charlie Chaplin-style recording by asking someone to move towards you.
As in all other cases, it is worth noting that the main influence on the quality of shooting and obtaining a good result is precisely the duration of the shooting. If you shoot a person moving as slowly as possible for a short time, then you will get an interesting and unusual result when viewing.
6. Record a scene with busy people
An interesting solution would be to put smartphone somewhere so that he writes down everything that happens in front of him. For example, you can shoot a busy square. People passing by create an unusual contrast with the immovable background.
7. Be mindful of battery life
The timelapse was created on purpose so that the finished result did not take up as much space as . But at the same time, you should be wary that this mode actively uses battery power. Very active. If you want to record a thirty-hour time-lapse, then you should connect the iPhone 6s to a power source. Considering that the camera application is the most gluttonous in terms of power consumption, such consumption should not surprise the user. So it is worth remembering the need for timely recharging of your smartphone.
Is it possible to change the timelapse settings?
Here you can give a very precise answer - no. Just look in the "Photos and camera" settings section. There is not a single mention of such a mode and any settings associated with it.
Company Apple designed the time lapse mode to be as easy to use for end users as possible. All operations for changing the frame rate and their subsequent gluing are carried out in the background. You only choose when to start filming and when to stop. That is, you will not be allowed to choose how many frames per second to record, at what speed to play the final result. All decisions are made by Apple.
If you need more flexibility, there are many different apps available for download from the App Store. A good choice would be to use hyperlapse or Frameographer. The first application, for example, allows you to choose the speed at which the video will be played. It also provides a fairly rich selection of features for image stabilization and anti-shake in , which is very useful for those moments when you will be shooting a time-lapse while holding a smartphone.
Now you know all the tips for shooting high-quality video in time-lapse mode.
Timelapse is probably one of the most interesting genres of photography. In the sense that if you are a photographer, then you become a videographer and vice versa. This is a combination of skills to take high-quality images, process them and compose them into a coherent material. And today we will talk about processing and layout and quite a bit about the former.
I was repeatedly asked to make this video tutorial after a timelapse video that was released on our channel a little over a year ago. There were cases when they sent me material and asked - Ilya, something is wrong with the picture. So, this is a story about how I myself work with images for time-lapse.
Introduction.
Quite a lot of people mistakenly believe that for a good time-lapse it is enough to turn on the application in the camera, and even convert it directly in the carcass. This will work only for home viewing or a blog and, frankly, does not teach anything. But this is a very laborious process. For example, for this release, I had to make long sorties several times and freeze everything that was possible along the way.
I’ll make a reservation right away that the scheme for processing a photo depends heavily on its content. Daytime photography of architecture is one style, night photography is another, nature is a third, people are a fourth, and so on.
Just as important is how correct the image you see on the monitor is. Therefore, I recommend that you think about what you look at your photos on. I speak from personal experience, because there were unpleasant situations when everything had to be redone due to an incorrect image and artifacts that I simply could not see. So I moved to work on a professional monitor 27 inches, with a resolution of UHD, 10 bits. Good coverage of sRGB and Rec709 color spaces is important to me, as well as Adobe RGB, in which I work most often. So I can be sure even before the final gluing that everything will be at least acceptable. I am using a professional monitor BenQ SW271 which greatly simplifies my work.
By the way, I shot the material in the classical way on a SLR camera with an external interval shooting remote control.
At the end of the video, all camera settings are written when shooting different scenes.
Photo editing in Lightroom.
I made a small series of shots in the city and using her example I will show how to prepare them for further gluing.
Let's import the photo into Lightroom.
By the way, two thoughts came to mind.
The first is that, most likely, many of you will be watching this video on a smartphone, tablet, 13 or 15-inch laptops, and the toolbar on the right will simply be unreadable. Therefore, for your convenience, I will compress Lightroom and record from part of the screen.
And the second thought is to take a photo of the sunset. Everyone loves it, and people often ask me: how to make a time-lapse of this phenomenon so that there is no stupid black screen at the end? And I still know one of the ways without using the fashionable LR Timelapse.
First of all, we select the starting fragment.
This photo will be the beginning of my video. As you understand, the essence of the sunset timelapse is the sun, the sky and the lights of cars or the city.
All pictures were taken in RAW format, this is not even discussed, but the camera was exposed color space Adobe RGB, which gives a wider color gamut, especially in the blue spectrum.
And before you start the so-called grading, that is, painting and giving mood, you need to bring the picture to the correct exposure, guided by the schedule, in order to analyze useful content and determine what is superfluous.
We look at the histogram, and press the triangle in its right corner, so we will see the overexposure. The only overexposure here is the sun, but in general the frame is absolutely correct in terms of exposure: the graph is not pressed either to the left or to the right.
I see that the horizon is uneven, let's fix it.
Hold down the alt key and move the sliders Highlights, Shadows and so on. We will see at some point - we have overexposure or a dip in the shadows.
So we brought the picture to medium quality. Yes, it is not very photographic, but more correct in terms of analysis.
Let's move on to the next block. This is the Presence panel, where we adjust the sharpness (aka hardness), saturation and colorfulness. And here do not overdo it with sharpness, this is the first mistake of a beginner. If you overdo it, when gluing, you will get a rippling mess. You can work with saturation more boldly, but not to the limit.
Do not hesitate to zoom in the image in dark and transitional areas in order to analyze the presence of artifacts. On a large monitor, of course, everything is clearly visible, but even here I’d better zoom in and double-check.
Now attention, the second very important point.
Time-lapse is almost always shot at the maximum closed aperture, and you understand that such a problem as spots is possible. Before shooting, I cleaned and checked the matrix, but when changing the optics, it’s all the same, some kind of bug has flown in, so I’ll have to clean it.
Do the cleaning using a small die and it is advisable to take a clone nearby, otherwise you will get a spotted dance when gluing.
Now let's apply a gradient to emphasize the sky even more.
Next, let's refine the tone curve image a little, looking at the histogram. Remember, the right shot has the shape of a kind of hill, where the colors are clearly distinguished? If it is of a different kind, then you simply lost some of the information.
Notice how I stretch the histogram so that the bottom of the hill is at the left and right edges.
I'll tweak the temperatures a little - I want the snow to be slightly purple. But without fanaticism. So, the graph is finally brought to the correct form, and the sky and snow are separated and we do not have a monolithic red image. We have achieved color contrast and further minor edits.
Go to the Split Toning item, that is, the separation of light and dark tones. And here I want to work with the shadows and change their temperature a little more.
I really like turquoise or cyan color and I want the shadows to acquire such a shade, but I will set the saturation very low.
Zoom in again and see if artifacts have appeared. I see that colored flakes have appeared on the snow. This needs to be fixed.
The first and obvious way is the Detail block, where I strongly recommend turning off Sharpening and forgetting about it like a bad dream. But raise the Noise Reduction by a few points until the colored noise disappears.
I noticed some more small spots, so I'll clean them up and we can already compare our before and after shots.
Look, the old shot was like a purple haze, and the new one has clear contrasting borders.
The final block is the adjustment of hue, lightness and saturation by color. And here be especially careful. This is where all the artifacts come from, especially if the camera shoots in 12 bits.
I use this block only to level out existing artifacts, and not to enhance a single color. For a photo, you can do anything, but after all, we will mount the frames in a video and you should always keep this in mind.
See, the snow still has light flakes of magenta and purple. What am I doing? I just remove them to minus, pull the sliders of the corresponding colors to minus, until the snow becomes conditionally monochromatic.
And just such moments are poorly visible on 8-bit monitors, and, as a result, you will get a scattered picture, many other artifacts that can randomly pop up both when sending for editing and when gluing.
As you understand, I deliberately pulled out many artifacts so that even when viewing on Youtube you can see what I'm talking about and how to fix it.
Our photo is ready!
Go to Library
If possible, you can immediately switch the screen to the sRGB color space and check the picture in it before exporting
We open the editing program, in my case it is Final Cut X, but you can use Premeiere, Vegas, etc.
Import images and transfer them to the timeline. Press the right button and select "change duration".
We put "1". This means that one picture corresponds to one frame.
We select everything and create a composite clip, that is, all the pictures become a single file on the timeline.
Now a question that is often asked: how to shoot a sunset so that you don’t end up with just a night. After all, if you set the camera to aperture or shutter priority, then there will still be moments of exposure jumps.
If you have the LR Timelapse app, it will automatically analyze and align all of this.
But I will show you a way when you have the camera fully set up in the “M” mode and initially nothing jumps in light for you.
See, our first snippet goes completely into darkness at the end. Not very spectacular, and someone else hit the tripod a couple of times and the picture twitched noticeably.
First to the first problem - the darkness in the finale. Go back to Lightroom and open the very last frame and adjust the exposure the way you would like to end the video.
Now save the settings as a preset.
Go to the library, open the first frame and apply our preset from the last frame. Do not be afraid that it is overexposed, this is normal.
We throw the pictures into the montage and perform all the same actions as for the previous batch. Duration - one frame for the picture and compose into a single clip.
But now carefully.
Below we put the first clip, where the final is completely dark, and on top the second clip, where the beginning is with recalculation, and the end is the way we want.
Open the tools and set the transparency of the upper clip from zero to one hundred.
Thus, we first see the first video, which smoothly transitions into the second.
Let's compare:
Finishing touch.
Let's make a crop, add curtains for a cinematic effect, but these are my personal preferences. Let's add stabilization to level the jerk in the middle. And here is our final piece.
Now you can also repeat everything for other shots. Remember that the photo becomes a video and you need to track all the artifacts while processing the starting image. After all, what is not obvious in statics, emerges immediately in dynamics.
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