What do you need for a polaroid. How does a Polaroid camera work? And are modern analogues similar to it? Incompletely developed image

01.06.2020

* - Also fits Talking Camera, Barbie, One Step and the like.

Camera device

Electronic flash lamp, oval frame (indicator of the working position of the lens close-up), lens, photocell, exposure control, photo exit window, shutter (protects the photo exiting the camera from being exposed to light), lens setting lever, close-up, cassette door, shutter-release button, flash-less shutter release, latch cassette door, green light (indicates flash is ready), frame counter (shows number of exposures remaining in cassette), viewfinder, thumb rest, neck strap, oval bezel, close-up lens lever

Preparing the Flash Bulb for Shooting

Grasp the sides of the flashbulb and turn it up to fix it in the working position. The flash is automatically recharged within 3 seconds after it is raised to the flash position with film in the camera, and also after the next shooting, or when the shutter-release button is lightly pressed. Using the flash for shooting both indoors and outdoors allows you to get instant high-quality photos in almost any lighting. After shooting, lower the flashbulb to its original position to protect the lens and lock the shutter-release button.

Charging the camera

Use only Impossible cassettes.

Each cassette holds eight color photographs and has a built-in electric battery to power the camera and flash lamp.

Each cassette package is marked with the release date of the film. Shelf life of the film is 12 months from the date of issue. When purchasing film, check this date to make sure you are purchasing fresh film.

To load film into the camera: Slide the cassette door latch forward. As soon as the door closes, the camera ejects the security card and the green light on the back of the camera lights up to indicate that the flash is ready to fire.

To remove an empty cassette from the camera: Slide the cassette door latch forward - the door will open. Pull the colored tab on the cassette and remove it from the camera.

Photography. Preparing the camera

Place the camera in the palm of your left hand (a).

Or, if it's more convenient for you, hold the camera so that your fingers are on the viewfinder and your left thumb is at the bottom (b).

Press your right thumb against the stop, and place your index finger on the shutter-release button. The remaining fingers of the right hand should be pressed to the palm.

Follow that. so that your fingers do not block the photo output window.

Location of the subject

Shooting indoors: for getting quality photos the object of shooting should be located on a light background at a distance of 1.2 - 3 m from the camera.

Shooting outdoors: The distance to the subject should be at least 1.2 m. It is recommended to use the flash at all times to take good pictures. Be careful when shooting. so that the sun is behind or to the side of the shooter. It is not recommended to shoot if the sun is directly above the head of the photographer. Also, make sure there are no foreign objects between the camera and the subject before shooting.

Shooting through glass: Check the frame in the viewfinder and press the shutter-release button. As soon as you release the shutter button, the camera will release the finished photograph and the flash will recharge. Photographing objects in daylight through glass is special kind shooting in which the flash must be turned off to avoid unwanted reflection effects. In this case, use the shutter release button designed for shooting without a flash (see illustration).

Close-up shot

To shoot, set the close-up lens lever to 0.3 - 1.2 m as shown in the figure. An oval frame that appears in the viewfinder warns that the lens is ready for close-ups. If the face of an adult person fits within the oval frame (see illustration) in portrait photography, then the distance to the subject is correctly selected. When photographing small children, multiple subjects, or a group of people, use the entire viewfinder frame, not just the size of the oval frame, which should now be centered on one of the subjects. After close-up shooting, the lever must be returned to the 1.2 m - 8 position. The lever also automatically returns to its original position when the flash is lowered.

Exposure control

This switch is used when you need to take a second shot to correct the brightness of the image in the picture.

(a) To get a brighter image in the picture, move the slider towards the white arrow

(b) To get more dark image in the picture, move the slider towards the black arrow.

If the exposure control is not returned to the center position, a double white arrow appears at the bottom of the viewfinder as a reminder

Conditions for obtaining high-quality photographs

During development, hold the photo by the wide edge of the white frame and keep it out of direct sunlight.

Temperature

When the air temperature is below 13°C, be careful not to let the camera and film get too cold. Immediately after shooting, place the developing photograph in a warm pocket or other warm place and hold it there without bending it for at least a minute. More detailed information Refer to the cassette packaging for information about the storage temperature for photos.

Lens

Avoid touching the lens. To remove dust and fingerprints from the lens surface, breathe lightly on the lens and wipe gently with a clean, soft cloth. It is not allowed to use hard wipes intended for wiping glasses glasses.

Developer Roller Care

Dirty developer rollers can cause spots or streaks to appear on photographs. The developer rollers are located behind the cassette door. If it is necessary to clean the rollers while the machine is charged, the door should be opened in low light. Use a damp, lint-free cloth to clean the rollers.

In case the camera does not shoot

Check the frame counter. When the cartridge is empty, the flash will continue to be charged from the battery, but the shutter release button will not work. The green light on the back of the camera only indicates that the flash is ready to fire.

Photos are too light (overexposure)

Possible reasons:

The subject is too close to the camera.
Dark background or uneven lighting
The subject is far from the background.
Incorrect exposure control setting

Correction Methods:

Check the distance to the subject.
Avoid placing the subject on a dark background, the illumination of the subject and the background should be uniform.
Position your subject against a brightly colored background.
Change exposure control position

Photos are too dark (underexposure)

Possible reasons:

The subject is too far from the camera or out of flash range
Availability of a source bright light or a reflective surface behind the subject.
Flash lamp failure.
Incorrect exposure control setting.
There are foreign objects between the camera and the subject.
Shooting subjects at night outside the flash range.

Correction Methods:

Take a picture with the flash and make sure the subject is within the flash range.
Decrease subject distance: When shooting people, the best distance is 1.2m.
Make sure there are no bright light sources (lamps, windows) and reflective surfaces behind the subject
To eliminate light reflection effects, it is recommended to change the shooting angle.
Position your subject against a brightly colored background.
Check the position of the exposure control.
Make sure there are no foreign objects between the camera and the subject.

When shooting, choose a position where the sun is behind or to the side of the shooter; Avoid positions where the sun is directly overhead.
It is recommended that you always use a flash to obtain high-quality photographs.
Try to point the camera lens at the main subject.

Unsharp (blurred) image

Possible reasons:

Shooting without flash in low light conditions.
Insufficient distance to the subject.
Moving the position of the camera or subject while shooting

Correction Methods:

When shooting indoors, always use the flash. In addition, flash should be used when taking pictures outdoors in the shade, at dusk, and on overcast days.
Correct the distance to the subject according to the working range of the flash.
It is recommended to smoothly press the release button and keep your finger on the button until the motor stops; ensure the fixed position of the subject at the moment the shutter release button is pressed.

Incompletely developed image

Possible reasons:

Damage to the developing photo capsule before loading the film into the cassette.

Correction Methods:

When charging the device, it is recommended to hold the cassette carefully by the edges and insert it into the camera until it stops.
It is recommended to remove the cassette from the packing box just before use.

Workshops for maintenance and repair

If you need information or assistance, or if your camera needs repair, please contact your Poparoid dealer or your nearest representative.

Warranty

The warranty period for the operation of the camera is 1 year from the date of sale at the retail trading network. In the absence of a date of sale, the warranty period is calculated from the date of manufacture according to the code that is on each camera. During warranty period The camera is repaired free of charge or replaced with a similar camera in accordance with the established procedure.

This warranty does not cover camera malfunctions caused by careless handling, improper storage, or misuse. In these cases, the elimination of malfunctions found in the camera is carried out at the expense of the owner at the established prices. For warranty repairs, the camera must be returned to one of the warranty workshops.

Precautionary measures

When handling the camera, like any other battery-powered device, the following precautions must be observed:

1. Follow all the provisions of this manual

2. Do not use a defective camera until it has been checked by a specialized workshop.

3. Do not disassemble the camera. To avoid defeat electric shock The camera must only be serviced and repaired by a specialist workshop. Incorrect assembly of the camera if you take it apart yourself may cause electric shock when you use it again. Do not immerse the camera in water or other liquids.

WHEN USING, PLEASE FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS CONTAINED IN THIS MANUAL.

Work on the creation of a single-stage process began as early as 1933, but only in 1960 did the American company POLAROID, under the leadership of the outstanding physicist Dr. Land, develop a photographic kit for obtaining high-quality color photographs a minute after shooting. POLAROID FA first appeared on the market in the early 70s. and firmly won their place.

The FA is based on the principle that combines the operations of exposing photographic material and obtaining a finished print, bypassing the traditional labor-intensive operations of processing negative material and directly printing, which makes photography "instant".

The POLAROID FA is shown in Fig... It works as follows. Rays of light passing through the lens and reflected from the mirror form an image of the object on the screen. This screen is made in the form of a Fresnel lens and has a mirror surface on the reverse side, and its optical axis is offset from the center of the screen. From the screen, the rays go to the top of the mirror and then to the aspherical concave mirror. The resulting image of the subject is viewed through the eyepiece.

During exposure, the screen rises, and the light flux, reflected from its mirror layer, falls on the photographic material. After that, the shutter opens. At the end of the exposure, the shutter closes and the screen is lowered into place.

The photographic material, called the film pack, is placed at the bottom of the FA. The filmpack contains a 6 V coin cell battery. The maximum current drawn by the control system is 1.5 A.

The photo set consists of two paper rollers: one roller is a negative tape coated with a high light sensitivity emulsion layer, the second is a paper tape coated with a non-photosensitive varnish layer. After exposure, the photosensitive layer of the negative tape is brought into contact with the lacquer layer of the positive tape by the camera mechanism. At the moment of contact between the negative and positive tapes, the capsules with developing paste attached to the tape are crushed, and it evenly covers the contact surfaces.

By developing a negative image in areas exposed to light, the paste simultaneously dissolves the halide rake of unexposed areas. Dissolved halide

fig... Construction of the POLAROID camera: a) when sighting; b) when exposed

the silver diffuses into the lacquer layer of the positive tape, where it is reduced and precipitated as blackening. The film pack allows you to take 10 pictures in 8x8 cm format.

Along with the main advantage of POLAROID FA over conventional film AF - obtaining color photographs almost immediately after exposure - they have a number of disadvantages. These include: a small permissible exposure error (due to the low photographic latitude), the difficulty of obtaining copies of images, the constancy of the format, and the relative bulkiness.

Any smartphone can now take an instant photo. A couple of touches and somewhere in another city, mom knows what you ate. But, despite this, hands are drawn to the good old Polaroids, which with a pleasant rattle give out a real analog photo.

Interest in retro touched all areas. This is largely due to the fact that people who were born in the eighties and nineties have now reached the age “the grass used to be greener” and they want to return to things that once left memories for a lifetime. These people are solvent today, and marketing sharks cannot miss such a chance. Well, as for those born in the 2000s and nostalgic for the times in which they never lived ... Well, psychologists say that this is normal.

But there is something else here. Many of the changes imposed by technology companies have unfairly supplanted their forefathers. Just as the candy bar killed the folding phones, so the digital replaced the analog photo into the fetish caste. But there are prerequisites for the return of fashion for instant photography, especially in the general flow of retro fashion.

On such a favorable wave, the revival of Polaroid Originals was announced, which stopped its activities in 2008. Entrepreneurs who have believed in the possibility of returning Polaroid to some of its former glory say that in today's digital world there is an increasing demand for real things that exist beyond the narrow confines of a smartphone. Austin Kleon, in his book Steal Like an Artist, described ten lessons in creativity, one of which concerned precisely the opposition of analog and digital.
Austin says, "work with your hands."

It is important for the human brain to get the result of its work. When an artist creates in an intangible space, the creative charge can quickly dry up. This problem has yet to be solved by virtual and augmented reality evangelists.

Story

Polaroid was founded by Edwin Land, the grandson of Russian immigrants and a Harvard graduate, in 1937. Basically, the company produced products with a polarized coating: sunglasses, table lamps and others. During World War II, the company produced a range of items for the US Army, including infrared night vision goggles, gun sights, and vectorgraphs. But cameras for instant photos began to be produced only 11 years later in 1948.

One day in 1943, while vacationing in Santa Fe, Land's three-year-old daughter Jennifer asked why the photograph could not be viewed immediately after the photo was taken. It was this naive childish question that became Starting point in Land's work on a new type of film. Land later recalled that he laid out in his head all the conditions and components necessary for the implementation of the technology within an hour. It was then that he decided to take up the development of instant photography. Obtaining a patent and implementing the idea took five years.

From 1943 to 1946, the development of the Polaroid instant camera was a closely guarded secret. One of the main problems was the strength of the cassette: to get to the end customer, she had to make her way from the conveyor, through warehouses, trucks, shops, bags and numerous crooked hands, while not cracking or spoiling from impact or pressure. Not to mention temperature fluctuations and other factors.

But a solution was found, and on February 21, 1947, the first camera for instant photography was introduced. And already in the 48th year, the first commercial model “Model 95” arrived at the central Boston department store, which was able to take pictures only in gray shades and had an important limitation: it was necessary to wait exactly 60 seconds before peeling off the negative layer from the photograph. Despite the fact that the quality of the camera did not exceed the existing systems, and required extreme care from the photographer, the buyers were satisfied. The first batch was sold out in minutes.

True high-contrast black-and-white (rather than gray-and-gray) Polaroid film came out two years later in 1950. The transition to black and white required additional manual soaking of the developed image using a polymer coating to prevent darkening of the photograph. And already in 1957, the New York Times called instant photography equal in quality to the best works, coming out of the usual dark rooms.

Despite the popularity of the instant camera, Land did not believe in marketing. He said that marketing is needed for obviously bad products. His approach was this: you need to show people something new and unnecessary up to this point so that by the end of the demonstration they irresistibly want to get this product. So he turned the annual meetings at Polaroid into a show of sorts. Land went up to the stage, showed a new camera, talked about its capabilities. And by the end of the meeting, the audience simply dreamed of getting such a camera.

You may have noticed some similarities here with Apple's product presentations. Steve Jobs followed the development of Polaroid in his youth, and once even confirmed that Apple was based on the same business model. In the 1970s and early 1980s, he made several visits to Polaroid headquarters to chat with Land.

Production of Polaroid in the USSR

Polaroid cameras were assembled in the USSR, and then in Russia. In the 80s, during one of his business trips to the United States, the Soviet nuclear physicist, Vice-President of the USSR Academy of Sciences, Academician Yevgeny Velikhov, at one of the meetings, met the then President of the Polaroid company Macalister Boof, and he suggested that he establish joint production in the USSR.

So, in 1989, at the initiative of the USSR Academy of Sciences, the joint venture Svetozor was organized, which over the next ten years produced the Supercolor 635CL and 636 Closeup models. These models did not differ functionally and had differences only in the shape of the hull. Production began with just a dozen pieces and two master assemblers, the equipment was put on the conveyor, but at first there was no one to work. The two people alternated between assembly and testing operations.

It was originally planned to produce 350,000 cameras within six years, but five years later the company reported that production volumes had reached two hundred thousand cameras a year. But even this was not enough, because sales of Polaroids assembled in the West in the territory of the former USSR reached one million pieces a year, not counting the batches produced by Svetozor.

By the way, not all components for assembly were delivered from abroad. For example, the electronic flash control unit was produced at the Signal plant in Obninsk, which was the only one besides factories in Malaysia and Scotland where Polaroid electronics were produced.

Our days, Impossible Project

Polaroid filed for bankruptcy twice in 2001 and was resold three times. The Polaroid era seemed to be over. But still there were enthusiasts who showed interest in outdated photographs. And in 2009, the last factory for the production of Polaroids was bought by three entrepreneurs and received the name Impossible Project (The Impossible Project). It can still be called experimental, but the project already has many supporters and admirers. And here it is worth remembering another phrase of Edwin Land: “You don’t need to do what everyone can do.”

Thanks to the Impossible Project, in 2017, for the first time in a long time, a new camera with the well-known Polaroid inscription was released. It's called OneStep 2. The camera takes instant photos, it has a timer, a flash, and a USB charging port. OneStep 2 is not yet on sale, but is available for pre-order. The camera uses i-type film, which was originally created for the original Impossible Project I-1 camera.

Since 2008, various companies have been able to obtain a license to use the Polaroid technology patent. But in 2017, parent company Impossible Project bought out all of Polaroid's patents, as well as all rights to intellectual property. What does all of this mean? This means that it will soon be possible to buy a new Polaroid camera for only $99.

Technology

The desire of Land's daughter required not only the creation of a new type of film, but also a camera with a different mechanism for producing photographs. The main element of the system was a film cassette containing both the negative and the receiving layer of the positive, connected by a reservoir with reagents (including sodium hydroxide) for development. This reservoir was called a cocoon. When leaving the chamber, a pair of rollers at the base of the chamber compressed the film, destroying the tank wall, after which the reagent spread over the image area. As the reagents spread, the chemicals removed the unexposed silver halide from the negative, brought it out onto the positive layer in a smaller amount, creating the final image. And to this day, the process has not changed significantly.

Outside, the picture is protected by a transparent film.
Below is the fixer.
Even lower is the buffer layer. It delays the penetration of the fixer substances while the reaction with the reagent takes place below.
The next is the receiving layer of paper, where the final positive image is formed from the dyes from the lower layers.
Under it is a reagent.
The next six layers are alternating emulsion layers and developing ink layers.
The three emulsion layers are sensitive to red, green and blue. They work like negatives for cyan, magenta, and yellow (or, in more familiar terms, cyan, magenta, and yellow) layers, rendering them unable to transfer onto paper. For example, a photograph of a blue sky will affect the blue emulsion, which will block out all the yellow paint underneath, allowing the magenta and cyan layers to pass to the surface of the positive, forming blue.

Video clip

In the format of an article, I prepared this Polaroid story for Giktimes, but initially we made a video, which I left below. It features voice-over with historical and technical illustrations, as well as a slightly more extended script. Controlling light to reduce glare is a longtime dream of Dr. Edwin Land.
It came to fruition in 1929, when the founder of the Polaroid Corporation was the first in the world to invent polarizing lenses for sunglasses.

Over 90% of glasses sold on the market today do not have polarizing filters.

The ones that do don't always have the same effect as Polaroid lenses. Working on the principle of a polarizing sheet, special vertical Polaroid sun lenses completely eliminate glare. Polarizing filters consist of long parallel fibers that block light traveling in a plane perpendicular to these fibers (i.e. horizontal "dazzle waves"), only useful vertical light waves pass through. Polarizing sun lenses selectively absorb light waves traveling in all directions except for vertical ones.

The complex 7-layer construction of Polaroid lenses is built around one central element: a polarizing light filter. Constructed from quality molded bityrate, the lens material is laminated to optical standards for uniform thickness, clarity and impact resistance. This S13 polarizing material is made up of 7 functional elements carefully put together. Both sides of the filter are laminated with ultraviolet light absorbers that cut off harmful ultraviolet rays down to 400 nanometers. Buffer elements are laminated to both sides of the UV absorbers, making the lens material lightweight and flexible - and at the same time remarkably strong.

A hard coating is attached to both sides of the surface of the S13 material. It gives the material ten times the strength of many conventional plastics.

Pictures showing the benefits of polarized glasses:
it is without glasses on a rainy day.
And this is with glasses.
without glasses on a bright sunny day.
wearing polarized glasses.

About blinding headlights from oncoming cars :

Driver's 24/7 glasses are glasses with light brown, orange or yellow lenses, only they can be used both day and night. Polarized dark brown and green lenses are only suitable for daytime driving.
Non-polarized glasses with dark brown or black lenses are also not suitable for daytime driving and can even be dangerous for the driver.

Glass or plastic?

Firstly,
glass glasses are quite expensive - more than 30 dollars.
Secondly,
dropping them on a stone, you lose them. :((

Image quality through high-quality plastic and glass is almost the same. Glass is also heavier. Plastic has one significant drawback - the glasses are very scratched, so you need to wear them only in a special soft case, otherwise it will become impossible to catch them in a season.

Points are:

from unknown plastic;
made of plastic that some well-known company (for example, Polaroid) has tested and which meets the ANSI Z.87.1 standard for "optical clarity" ;
from ordinary polycarbonate, which is superior to just plastic in terms of impact-break strength, polarization efficiency, scratch resistance, optical distortion;
from glass, which surpasses all plastics and polycarbonates in all respects, except for resistance to impact, drop and weight;
CR-39 special optically correct material (inferior to glass in scratch resistance and the same in impact strength);
from various materials (not glass) patented by well-known optical (not design) companies, such as SR-91 Kaenon, XVZ, etc.

How to check the polarization of glasses?

Option one:

Take two intended polarized glasses and align them lens to lens. Then turn some glasses 90 degrees relative to others and look at the light (the axis of rotation passes through the centers of the lenses). If the glasses are polarized, then the clearance in the lenses will become dark, if simple glasses, then nothing will change.

Option two:

Take one prospective polarized glasses, look at any LCD monitor (you can use the display cell phone or the monitor of any payment terminal) and rotate the glasses 90 degrees relative to the monitor (display) ((the axis of rotation passes through the center of the glasses and the center of the LCD monitor)). If the glasses are truly polarized, the image will darken or become completely dark (depending on the degree of polarization). If the glasses are simple, then nothing will change.

Source - Internet.

Polaroid camera model "600 CL" (manual close-range), "600 AF" (auto focus)

Electronic flash lamp
Lens
Photocell
Exposure control
Photo output window
Shutter (protects the picture from being affected by light output)
Cassette door
Shutter button
Shutter button for shooting without flash (600 CL only)
Cassette Door Latch
Green indicator (flash ready)
Frame counter (shows the number of frames remaining)
Viewfinder
Thumb rest
Neck strap holders (not included)
Adjustable length hand strap
Oval frame (indicates the working position of the close-up lens)
Close-up lens lever (600 CL only)

Preparing the flash lamp for shooting (1)

Grasp the side surfaces of the flash and turn it up to set it to the working position. The flash automatically recharges within 4 seconds when flashed to the flash position if the camera is charged and each time a shot is taken or the shutter button is lightly pressed, the green indicator lights up. To conserve battery power, the flash will turn off after 60 seconds, but will be ready to shoot again when the shutter button is pressed. Section (4) provides guidelines for shooting without a flash. The flash is designed for shooting both indoors and outdoors, allowing you to take instant high-quality photos in almost any light. When you are not using the camera, lower the flash lamp to protect the lens and lock the shutter button.

Camera charging (2)

Use only "Polaroid 600" color film (Impossible cassettes)
Each cassette holds eight shots and has a built-in electric battery to power the camera and flash.
The expiration date of the film is indicated on the bottom of each package with a cassette. This date is a guarantee of the purchase of fresh film.

To load film into the camera
Slide the cassette door latch forward and the door will open. Holding the film cassette by its edges as shown in the illustration, insert it into the camera until it stops. Close the door. As soon as the door closes, the camera ejects the security card and a green light on the back of the camera lights up to indicate that the flash is ready to fire.

Photography (3)

Take the camera with your left hand so that your fingers are on the viewfinder body, and your thumb is on the bottom (a). Or, if more convenient, hold the camera with your thumb through the hand strap (b). Adjust the length of the hand strap with the buckle. Then press your thumb right! hands to the stop, and put your index finger on the shutter button. The remaining fingers of the right hand should be pressed to the palm. Make sure that the fingers do not block the photo exit window.

Location of the subject
The subject must be at the following distance from the camera:

Before shooting, make sure there are no foreign objects between the camera and the subject. Always use flash for better pictures. When shooting indoors, the subject should be placed against a light-colored background. When shooting outdoors, make sure that the sun is behind or to the side of the shooter.

Shooting

Make sure the green indicator is on. If not, lightly press the shutter button and release to charge the flash. Locate the frame in the viewfinder and press the shutter button. The camera will release the finished photograph and the flash will recharge.

Shooting without using the flash (4) (only for "600 CL")

When shooting with the "600 AF", the flash always fires, whether you are shooting indoors or outdoors. When shooting with the "600 CL", you can shoot without flash by pressing the appropriate shutter button as shown in the illustration. You may not use the flash when shooting through glass during the day (to avoid glare) or in other cases of unusual lighting. However, it's best to always use the flash to get better shots.

Close-up shooting (5) (only for "600 CL" camera)

The close-up lens is recommended for shooting distances of 0.6 to 1.2 m. To shoot, set the close-up lens lever (a) to "0.6-1.2 m". An oval frame (b) in the viewfinder window indicates that the lens is ready for close-ups. If, in a portrait shot, an adult's face fits in an oval frame (c), then the distance is chosen correctly.

When photographing small children, multiple subjects, or a group of people, hold the oval frame in one place and center the frame on one of the subjects, using the entire area of the frame, not just the oval frame.

After completing close-up shooting, return the lever to the "1.2 - ∞" position. The lever also automatically returns to its original position when the flash is lowered.

When shooting with the "600 AF" camera, focusing from 0.6 m to infinity is performed automatically.

Exposure control (6)

This switch is used only when it is necessary to take a second shot in order to correct the brightness of the image in the picture.
To get a brighter image in the picture, move the slider towards the white arrow (a) as far as it will go.
To get a darker image in the picture, move the slider towards the black arrow (b) as far as it will go.
When you finish recapturing the subject, return the slider to the center position (c).
Note: When shooting with an autofocus camera, a red area above the center indicates that the slider is off-center.

Conditions for obtaining high-quality photographs (7)

Developer Roller Care

Dirty developer rollers may cause spots or streaks to appear on photographs (a). The developer rollers (b) are behind the cassette door. If it is necessary to clean the rollers while the machine is charged, the door should be opened in low light. Use a damp, lint-free cloth to clean the rollers.

In case the camera does not shoot
Check the frame counter. When the cartridge is empty, the flash will continue to be charged from the battery, but the shutter release button will not work.

Photo Handling

Temperature

When the air temperature is below 13°C, make sure that the camera and film do not get too cold. Immediately after shooting, put the developing photo in a warm pocket or other warm place and keep it there without bending for at least a minute. For more information, see the cassette packaging.

Lens

Shooting Tips

For best shooting results, always use flash.
Try to point the camera lens at the main subject.
When shooting, choose a position where the sun is behind or to the side of the shooter; Avoid positions where the sun is directly overhead.

Possible shooting errors and methods for correcting them

Photos are too light

The subject is too close to the camera - Try to shoot within the working range of the camera.
Dark background and/or uneven lighting - Avoid placing the subject in front of a dark background; The illumination of the subject and the background should be uniform.
The subject is far from the background - Place the subject as close as possible to the light-colored background
Incorrect exposure control setting - Check exposure control setting

Photos are too dark

The subject is too far away from the camera or outside the flash range - Decrease the distance while remaining within the recommended flash range.
Presence of a bright light source or reflective surface behind the subject - Make sure that there are no bright light sources (lamps, windows) and reflective surfaces behind the subject. To eliminate reflection effects, it is recommended to change the shooting angle
The subject is far from the background - Position the subject as close as possible to the light-colored background

Incorrect exposure control setting - Check exposure control setting.
There are foreign objects between the camera and the subject - Check that there are no foreign objects between the camera and the subject.

Flash did not fire - Take another picture; make sure you do not accidentally press the shutter button without flash (600 CL camera only)

Unsharp (blurred image)

The flash was not used when the light was not bright enough - Always use the flash when shooting indoors, and when shooting outdoors in the shade, at dusk, or on an overcast day.
The subject is too close or the close-up lens is set incorrectly - Position the subject at least 0.6 m away from the camera and check the close-up lens setting ("600 CL" camera)
Shifting the position of the camera or subject during shooting - Gently press the shutter button and keep your finger on the button until the motor stops; ensure that the subject is in a fixed position at the moment the button is pressed.
Fingerprints on the lens - See lens cleaning tips.

Incompletely developed image
Damage to the developing photo capsule before loading the film into the camera - When loading, hold the cassettes by the edges and insert it into the cassette slot until it stops. Do not remove the cassette from its packaging until shooting.

Warranty

The warranty is for one year and starts from the date of purchase. If the coupon or passport does not contain the date of sale or the stamp of the store, the warranty period is calculated from the date of manufacture according to the code on the camera label. To confirm the warranty, you must keep the warranty card or other document certifying the date of purchase of the camera. During the warranty period, the camera is repaired free of charge or replaced with a similar camera in accordance with the established procedure (the decision is made by the company's specialists).
This warranty does not cover camera malfunctions caused by accident, neglect, improper storage, or misuse. In these cases, the elimination of malfunctions found in the camera is carried out at the expense of the owner at the established prices.
This warranty does not include compensation for consequential damages, unless it is in conflict with applicable law. For repair or replacement of a camera under warranty, contact your dealer or service centres Polaroid company.

Attention: As with any other battery-powered device, care must be taken when handling the camera. Supervise children if they are using the camera or if the picture is being taken in front of them. To avoid electric shock, do not expose the camera to water, immerse it in water or other liquids, disassemble it, or use it in a defective state. Repair information is available at Polaroid Service Centers.