Change the anchor in Dremel. We change the anchor in Dremel Additional services of service centers for the repair of power tools

The name Dremel has long become a household name, as well as Xerox, Unitaz, Jeep. When a person hears "dremel", he immediately imagines a grinder (engraver), regardless of who is the manufacturer of this grinder. Of course, products under the brand "Dremel" is a leader in both price range and quality.

For reference:

The history of the company began in 1932, when the founder of the company A J Dremel introduced the first multi-tool to the market. In the decades that followed, many innovative DREMEL-branded products entered the market throughout Europe. The range includes a rich selection of multifunctional high-speed tools, both networked and wireless, and more than 150 attachments and attachments. DREMEL is renowned for its innovation and high standards of quality, functionality and ergonomics. DREMEL is currently a subsidiary of the Bosch Corporation.

I bought my first engraver five years ago. At that time I was still a completely inexperienced buyer in online stores. Chose, of course, DREMEL. The seller from the USA assured that this is the original. Bought for about $40. Of course, for an original Dremel tool, this is very cheap. But if we take the prices of engravers from less famous manufacturers, then offline for the same price you can now buy an engraver with much better technical indicators.

But back to my first Dremel. He arrived in a package. The set included only the engraver itself with a key and a gif cable. The label indicated the brand DREMEL (not DEMBEL and not DEMEL, as they say now on Chinese crafts), Made in USA (funny, really :)), etc.

I was completely inexperienced then and did not understand that this product had nothing to do with Robert Bosch products. I believed that this is the original and was pleased. The fact that the minimum speed of the engraver is too high, I did not understand then because of the lack of experience, I thought it was necessary.

Used the engraver a little and he lived for about 4 years. But once I had to make a groove in the textolite with them and after about 10 minutes of work it warmed up pretty decently. I let it cool down and after that it didn't work normally anymore. When you try to turn it on, it twitches, spins slowly and gets very hot. You don’t have to be an electrical genius to understand that there are problems with the armature, namely the interturn circuit.

Immediately I thought that there might be a problem in the control circuit, I disassembled the engraver and then I realized that this is a product of terrible quality of the basement assembly. Outwardly, everything looked quite decent.

The control scheme shocked me. Resistor, dinistor and triac. Soldering - you can't do it any worse. The switch is a brass plate pressed by a variable resistor engine. Strange, but the scheme works. Maybe because it's simple as a rake.

Everything is kind of uneven, flimsy and seemingly unreliable. But the problem is still not in this terrible control scheme, but in the anchor.

At first I thought about rewinding the anchor, but people involved in rewinding engines did not immediately explain that they were in great demand and for less than $ 200 they would not even get up from their chair, not to mention rewinding the anchor of some shitty engraver. Yes, I went to the wrong business ... But oh well.

Since I still need an engraver and I couldn’t fix the broken one quickly, I bought a new Wortex engraver offline. I will say briefly - it is for the same price, but much more powerful, more convenient and more beautiful. Yes, and he has a richer equipment. I use them now.

But it was a pity to throw away the old one. He languished for several months and yet decided to fix it. I tried to look for parts from the original Dremel engraver. I found its catalog number and wrote several letters to service centers in Minsk. The answers didn't make me happy. They gave me a price commensurate with the cost of the engraver and a delivery time of 30 days. Yes, our merchants are also snickering.

I climbed on the Polish Allegro and immediately found several anchor options for a price of about $ 11 with delivery in Poland by the catalog number.

I know that it is possible to order goods from the Polish Allegro auction and with delivery to Belarus. But for this, “dancing with a tambourine” is necessary, and for a one-time order, I decided not to bother, but turned to an old friend who is now working in Poland. The comrade did not refuse to help (special thanks to Alexei for this) and after a couple of weeks I had a new anchor.

Top is new, bottom is old. The difference is small, but it exists. At first glance, it seemed to me that the new one was smaller in diameter, but measurements with a caliper showed that the dimensions were completely the same. It can be seen because of the lilac color, the new one seems smaller. But the impeller is really smaller by a couple of millimeters.

The impeller is slightly different in size and shape, it is hard to see in the photo. But most importantly, I just now noticed that my old anchor has a non-standard collet nut. Her carving is not the same as that of a new anchor. I tested the new Wortex engraver and both flex cables from the old and new engravers. There are standard threads everywhere. By the way, the Polish anchor has the correct thread.

It was then that I remembered with a “kind” word the Chinese assholes who put a non-standard anchor with hell knows what thread and non-standard nut.

The bearing at the Polish anchor was not fully seated, but I easily pressed it.

Let's start replacing the anchor.

First unscrew the brush holders.

According to the spring holders.

Carefully remove the brushes.

Graphite brushes barely hold on to the springs. We must try not to lose them.

We unbend and remove the bracket for hanging the dremel.

Now we unscrew 4 self-tapping screws and separate the case.

Since the brushes have already been removed, the control circuit is easily disconnected from the stator and the armature is pulled out.

On one of the body halves there is an armature brake mechanism, which is a metal pin and a springy plate. Everything is flimsy, falling apart and easily falling out and lost. Let's make sure it doesn't fly out.

We assemble everything in the reverse order, solder the wires that have fallen off by themselves (hello to Chinese soldering assemblers). Turn on! And silence... Doesn't work!

Okay, I'm taking it apart again. Once again, I disassemble the control scheme. No, everything is poor there, but it should work.

I guess to ring the power wire and here it is, one core does not ring.

"Quality" Chinese wire. Breaks and any moment in any place. There is no other at hand, so I just cut off a piece and shorten it. I solder again. Then this wire will need to be replaced. I'm collecting everything again.

I temporarily rearrange the clamping nut of the collet chuck from the flexible cable.

This time everything worked as it should. The engraver works, the speed is regulated, it seems that it does not get particularly hot.

Conclusion: Would I buy this engraver again. NO!

Thanks to the Poles for the fact that they have cheap spare parts. But the question arises: why do the Poles have them and cheaply, while we have them expensively and on order? Those. we have it on order, which means Belarusian suppliers will bring it from Poland and sell it 4 times more expensive. This is our country...

But I'm unlikely to order at a cost of 4 times more and wait a month. It’s better to get confused by registering on Allegro, buy there 4 times cheaper and wait for delivery for a couple of weeks. True, the state makes life easier for Belarusian idle sellers in every possible way, limiting the amount of purchases by law to 22 euros. But even to pay customs duty Still cheaper than overpaying our sellers.

Maybe it's time for our traders to understand that the buy-sell business, on which they have been sitting for many years, needs to be rebuilt somehow?

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Additional services of service centers for the repair of power tools

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Do you prefer to deal with maintenance or repair yourself? It's not as difficult as it seems. Take advantage useful tips from the section.

To install or configure the purchased equipment, you can use the services of specialists from authorized organizations (authorized service center), who will carry out all necessary work for further operation of the power tool. Addresses of all service centers on the map of Moscow are given at the top of the page. If there is no service center at the specified address or is located at a different address, please let us know.

December surprised me. The luck that has accompanied years of online shopping has changed twice in a matter of days. First, in 3D printer assembly kit they didn’t add wheels, and those that were in the kit crunched with bearings. And secondly, what will be discussed here - my brand new "dremel" with the TASP brand suddenly refused to work. The seller, we must pay tribute to him, after watching the video with the problem, without further ado, despite the fact that the order was already closed, sent a new typewriter within a day, writing that they 100% check the equipment when sending, and that there is obvious damage to the printing shipping fees. The question, as it were, was resolved, but it was necessary to cut it now, and not in a month, and it was a pity for a quiet, comfortable machine in the hands with good balance and practically no backlash - what now - throw it away?

The machine is disassembled quite simply - you need to unscrew 6 screws and remove the wire holder.

Everything looks good inside. There is no smell of burning, darkened and charred parts are not visible, and we do not observe torn wires either.

We unscrew the only screw that holds the circuit board in place and pull it out of the case. Disconnect the wires leading to the engine, they are on the connectors. We check the motor windings with an ohmmeter, it is enough to make sure that there is no break, and you can move on.

Now let's move on to the speed controller. It is made traditionally, using a thyristor, has a good network filter and is assembled on a printed circuit board.

The controller circuit is typical for this type of engine. It is made on the basis of the triac Z0409MF - 600 V, 4A. Turning the regulator wheel in the "MAX" position closes the regulator, and connects the motor directly. Once the engine is silent, we are looking for a break.

Examination of the printed tracks with a magnifying glass revealed doubtful places, which were checked with an ohmmeter.

Eventually a hard-to-see crack in the printed track was found, and the board was repaired by soldering a jumper wire. In my opinion, this is hardly the result of sending by mail, rather a defect in the printed circuit board, which did not appear immediately.

The machine worked, but only in one position - at the maximum, in the position when the switch in the diagram closes the thyristor regulator. So, the thyristor needs to be changed.

We solder the thyristor (a black thing on a board with three legs), for this it is convenient to use a soldering iron with a flat tip.

The resistance "control electrode" - "other output" is close to zero, the thyristor is dead.

Since the control electrode was broken at the thyristor, most likely, the dinistor in its circuit (a blue figovin with two legs somewhere nearby) also died. After we removed the thyristor from the board, one side of it “hangs”, and you can also try it with an ohmmeter. If the device shows a small resistance, the dinistor is broken, and it must also be removed from the board.

The board is one-sided, and this is happiness for the repairman - it is enough to simply prepare the holes for mounting new parts by heating the holes filled with solder with a soldering iron and cleaning them with a toothpick.

We need a new double-sided thyristor, it is also a triac, it is also a triac, with an operating voltage of 600 V and a current of several amperes, that is, almost any. The price of the issue is if you run to the nearest radio parts store - 40 - 70 rubles.

For example, this one is quite suitable - 600 V, as much as 12A. This is the first thing that came to hand.

The little blue cylinder with the DB3 brand looked vaguely familiar, I had already met it somewhere ... It turns out that it is present in every energy-saving lamp, there are generally a lot of interesting things inside, I recently became interested. So the dinistor was simply rearranged from a faulty light bulb. It is symmetrical, so it can be installed on either side.

Just in case, we isolate the thyristor with heat shrink. Near wiring and vibration from rotating nozzles ...

We carefully return all the “offal” to the place so that nothing interferes, before that it makes sense to put the spare brushes that come with the kit and check the contact with an ohmmeter. I did not like the design of the brush holders, and I wanted their reliable operation without repeated disassembly.

the printed circuit board must "sit down" in place before we fix it with a screw, at network cable nest with flats, he also needs to find the right position. We close the covers, tighten the screws - everything works!