In addition to a technical error, whether it is carelessness or inattention of the master, it is very important that the portrait painted on the monument conveys an external resemblance to the deceased person and pleases the customer. Therefore, all artistic engraving works are performed by masters of the highest class, with knowledge of their craft.
So that the portrait does not turn out to be faceless and the master manages to capture the character of the deceased person, the initial quality of the photograph from which the image will be applied on the monument is very important. How better picture, the better the portrait will be.
Unfortunately, it often happens that the original for engraving a portrait is very far from ideal. This could be a small black and white ID photo or a 70s shot on embossed paper. Old photographs may be in very poor condition. It happens that you need to cut out the image of one person from a group shot. In this case, restoration or even reconstruction of the original photo and its preparation for engraving is required.
This is a painstaking and time-consuming process, consisting of several stages: converting a photo into digital format, cropping and retouching it.
The conversion of a photo into digital format is carried out by scanning the original image in color (even black and white), often the same image has to be passed through the scanner several times at different angles, so that in the future, by superimposing the resulting images, remove some of the interference in the form of scratches and spots. If the original photo is printed on embossed paper, then it can be converted to digital format by reshooting it.
The following cropping allows you to select the desired image size. Next, the background of the photograph is removed, a so-called "black substrate" is created. In the future, at the request of the customer, a photomontage can be made to create any background, for example, a landscape, a view of the sea, a city.
Retouching the original photo, intended for its application as an image on the monument, is in many ways different from the correction of artistic photographs. Retouching for artistic photographs often smoothes out details and defects in the image, while photo retouching for monuments requires increased graphics and additional drawing of facial features, costume, hair, highlighting elements of clothing and emphasizing its contours. The border between the image and the background to enhance the three-dimensionality is most often emphasized by additional highlighting.
Even the type of stone for the monument (granite, basalt) influences the nature of retouching. Special attention is given to the study of the neck line, the contour of the cheekbones, ears and hair. The customer must pay attention to the eyes, in addition to a clear contour and drawing eyelashes, they must have pupils, otherwise they will look just like two in the portrait. dark spots. A properly retouched and corrected original photo allows you to create a portrait on a stone that not only retains an external resemblance to the deceased, but also conveys his personality, helping relatives not to forget what a person was like in life.
Photo retouching service is available for order. To find out the cost - call the office of the company "Rusgranit"
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To depict a portrait on a tombstone, you will need a photo of the deceased. But sometimes it happens that a photograph that relatives want to see on a memorial stele is badly damaged, or old and needs restoration, and you want to remember a dear person young, or captured at a certain moment in life. In this case the best option- turn to professionals. Usually, large companies, engaged in the manufacture of monuments and engraving portraits, have trained specialists on staff who, using digital tools, skillfully retouch any photo.
But if the picture does not require too complex professional processing, you can try to process the photo on the monument with your own hands using graphic editor"Photoshop".
Photo processing procedure:
Digitization
First of all, using the scanner, transfer the existing photo to the computer. The resolution of the photo should be specified from 600 dpi. Then open it in the editor.
pruning
You should find out in advance from the company where the engraving will be done, what size the image needs to be provided, and fit the image to it.
This can be done using the “Crop” tool (“Crop” in English versions), or by using the “Image” menu➛”Image Size”.
Contrast
Old photos often look quite dull, the “Levels” tool (“Image”➛”Correction”➛”Levels”) will help to cope with this.
In the window that opens, use the sliders to adjust the image to the desired contrast. In this case, it should be borne in mind that for a photo on ceramics, the picture should be light, for engraving - on the contrary, more contrasting.
Retouch
You can remove cracks, specks and small artifacts using the Stamp or Healing Brush tools - they transfer the image texture from the area you specified to the damaged one.
With the Alt key held down, click on an undamaged area with the mouse. Then adjust the brush size and “walk” over the defects. Use the smooth edges of the brush.
The work is quite complex and painstaking, so it is desirable to save intermediate satisfactory stages so that you can return to them if necessary.
Preservation
When the photo has acquired the desired look, it should be saved in the highest resolution allowed.
There are quite a few services on the Internet that offer retouching photos on a monument online, but they all come down to a simple online order form - an offer to send a picture and pay for retouching. It is impossible to prepare a photo for a monument online, as this is a very painstaking manual work.
Retouching on monuments - editing the original photographs (removing defects, giving the image clarity and artistry) in traditional or digital ways. We do photo retouching on the monument with their subsequent application on the stele.
Retouching a portrait on a monument takes place in several stages: scanning a photo, drawing a black background and a halo, smoothing the bottom edge, removing defects (dust particles, glare, cracks), adding brightness and contrast (giving clarity to the portrait). After the processing of the photo for engraving is completed, it is applied to the monument. Our masters perform these works manually or using a laser printer. An artistic background, clothing and other design elements can be chosen for the portrait.
Photo requirements for retouching
In order for the portrait to be as similar as possible to the original, the photograph must be of sufficient quality. She may be old family archive), but with a clearly visible face. To retouch a portrait on a monument, you need to scan a paper photo yourself or bring the original to the office on the day the contract is signed (or in the next few days after).
Photo scan requirement:
- resolution of at least 600 dpi
- jpg, tif or psd format
- selection of the scan area (so that the scan does not cover the entire surface of the scanner, but only the photo)
Note that the size of a paper photograph does not play a special role when properly scanned. For retouching on a monument, large portraits can be equally used, as well as photographs taken on documents.
What affects the quality of a photo for retouching?
1. Mobile mail. When sending a photo from your phone, it is often compressed by default. When enlarged to the required size, the portrait is blurred, which complicates the work of the retoucher and leads to a decrease in similarity with the original. It is better to send a photo from a computer.
2. Photos taken on the phone. Unfortunately, in the recent past, the cameras on the phone only allowed you to take a picture of a very small resolution. Such a photo is retouched only if there are no other better pictures.
Why do you need retouching on the monument?
Photo retouching for monuments necessary condition drawing a portrait on granite. The raw photo simply won't show up on the tombstone. Our artists do retouching based on the requirements of laser equipment. Our machines allow us to achieve maximum image clarity.
Retouching with curvature, and this is one of my many mistakes, unfortunately, I can not fix it yet. Of course, I don’t consider myself a master, but I really like to give lessons! Therefore, she could not deprive herself of such pleasure! Maybe I’m doing something wrong, I can’t deny it, but I got to everything myself, watched the video, somewhere I learned from my own mistakes.
1. The very first thing to do is to align the photo if it is crooked: double-click on the layer where there is a lock and it disappears. Then press CtrL T at the same time. Expand over the edge. But everyone understands, I hope.
2. The second thing that catches your eye in this photo is the uneven distribution of light. How to lighten darker areas? What is easier - I took a clarifier and lightened everything that is darker. Only with a clarifier in the same place we can walk two or three times, the similarity is lost! You can use a vector mask in this case.
3.Create a duplicate layer by pressing Ctrl J at the same time. And one more layer. It turned out three layers. The top layer is active. Apply the levels function to the active layer: image-correction-levels
4. In the levels, move the middle slider to the left so that the dark part of the face is lightened. Pay no attention to the light! Let her at least turn white!
And now the most important thing! At the bottom of the layers there is a so-called vector mask. Press the Alt key and this mask at the same time
5. It turned out such a black square near the top layer, and the image acquired its original form. Then take a white brush and paint over the dark areas of the face
I chose a brush with 60% opacity because when I did the levels, I lightened the dark part of the face too much. There you will not guess the first time. But in this case, you can fix the opacity of the brush. If something doesn’t suit you and you painted over with a white brush, switch the white color to black in the tools and swipe over the same place where you didn’t like it, and everything will be as it was before.
Press Ctrl without releasing, select the bottom layer. Now we have two layers selected. Right click - merge layers.
7. Then duplicate the layer with Ctrl J and apply either a filter-blur on the surface, or a filter-noise-reduce noise. If you have a Perfectum plugin, then it's better to use it, of course. But just keep in mind that this plugin can be used in RGB mode (image-mode-RGB), only then the plugin will be active!
A window popped up - do not merge layers!
Then another window will appear - "cancel and cancel". Click on "cancel"
8. Make a black vector mask as described above and use a white soft brush to paint over the areas of the skin where it is necessary to smooth it out. In those places where there are wrinkles, make the percentage of opacity lower. And where you need to leave sharpness, you can not use a brush.
9. Let's work with a mix brush and smooth out the bumps on the face that remain. Opacity 13 percent. You can’t mix with a brush at once in all places, clamped, only in each area of \u200b\u200bdifferent lighting, otherwise it will make everything gray for you.
10. The face more or less cleared up, but it became very blurry. We need to fix this urgently!
Duplicate the layer. Always duplicate layers so that later you can delete this layer and do it differently if it's bad. And then the story has a peculiarity to end at the most inopportune moment! Filter - sharpen - contour sharpness. Make it not very scary, the sharpness is not too steep. For example, I have 81% on the effect, and on a radius of 5.3 pixels. But for each retouch, contour sharpness is different! Photos are different in quality. I also use other methods for sharpening, but they are more complicated.
11. Levels again, with the alt key pressed, first move the black slider so that there is a black dot on the face, for example, on the pupils, on the upper eyelids, somewhere, maybe on the hair. And then with the alt key pressed, move the white slider so that there is a small white dot on the face. This is for maximum contrast. If some part of the face is lightened or darkened again, use the vector mask again, merge the layers. Let it be long, but the result will be!
12. We work with pens. First - the eyes, then the nose, mouth, wrinkles. Darkener, finger, brightener, mix brush, constantly compare with the original.
You can draw eyes or other facial features, so as not to be mistaken in this way: duplicate the original layer, sharpen it. Intermediate layers are disabled. And the top layer we are working on is turned on, make it opaque to the smallest percentage and draw on the top layer.
Just make sure it's not too dark or too light. If it's overkill, brightener or dimmer, do less by percentage, and cancel the action. And be careful: the clarifier can be both in highlights, and in midtones, and in shadows. The same with the dimmer. And they act differently! If you have gone from the original, you can try to make your retouching 50% (approximate number) opaque, leaving the source as the bottom layer, merge the layers. But then again you have to remove the noise and sharpen. But it will be more similar! You can not overdo it with the stroke. The lower eyelids should not be as black as the upper ones. Look carefully where the darkest places in the photo are, highlight them more, and where there is less blackness, circle there, but not so much. At the end, contour sharpening again. Sometimes, after sharpening, white stripes remain around the wings of the nose, on the eyelids. You can remove them with a mix brush at high magnification, or take a dimmer with backlight settings, a very small exposure.
On the face there should not be as sharp transitions from dark to light. The darkest places in the grayscale mode up to 50-60%, the blackness on the stone will be higher. How to see? Window - check the box next to info. We look at the upper left corner in the main working environment, the K values. But do not forget about the grayscale mode.
13 Hair. We didn’t worry about the hair during retouching at all, and now we don’t understand what it is! I select the hair on the source, duplicate it on a new layer, which I put at the very top and now I do whatever I want with the hair. Levels, sharpness, finger, clarifier, dimmer. If you don't like it, I'll delete it. I highlight the lightest hair with a highlighter. Where the blackness is completely and the hair is practically invisible, I draw the hair with the "shadow" clarifier in the settings at the top with a small exposure. I smooth it with a mix brush so that there are no bumps. And then where it seems to me that they are closest, I brighten the backlight with a clarifier. The blackness is not painted over, and the hair acquires volume. Sometimes in a good photo it is not necessary to highlight the hair, it becomes expressive from sharpness. I wiped the edges where necessary with an eraser. At the end I combine with retouching.
14. Put on clothes, painted the background. With the background - a separate lesson. But in the same place, no one needs difficulties! And I like it more difficult, more interesting! But if anyone wishes how to make the background perfectly black and so that there are no gray spots around, which we sometimes do not see, but only the machine sees, I can give the following lesson. When a black background is made, the hair can get lost in that background. I take the highlight setting dodger, a small exposure and paint over the edges of the hair. Separate hairs on top, so that the hairstyle is not so smoothed, I draw 100% with the smallest finger, with one. If they stand out strongly, then you can darken a little with a dimmer.
15 There is a program that is for the Step machine. On it you can check any retouching, how it will look on the stone. Sometimes it happens, I'll do everything as soon as I upload it to the program - horror! I can already see where I need to highlight, where to darken. Where the hair or clothes will merge with the background, where there are light spots on the skin of the face that need to be removed. In this program, there should be both black and the whitest point, as well as gray tones. But if there are large white spots all over the face, then there will definitely be a pancake on the stone! I can by e-mail throw off this program to everyone who wants it. It’s not difficult for me. It’s easy to use it, but it’s a little buggy on the computer without a machine, so you need to press ok all the time. And upload images there only in BMP format.
If something is not clear, it doesn’t work, please contact me, I will answer all your questions with pleasure! Puzzled, where to start, where to look for lessons? And if at least one person uses one of my methods in retouching, we can already say that life has not been lived in vain!!! Kidding.
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