Report on the history and operation of the loom. History of weaving. The history of the loom

Fabrics and weaving have been known to mankind since time immemorial, shrouded in antiquity, times. The history of fabric the result of a great human effort on the improvement of the production process: from hand weaving to advanced technologies of the world textile industry. The inventions of the ancient peoples laid the foundation for the weaving tradition, which is widely used in our time.

The history of fabric: how it all began

Humanity needed to protect its body from cold and heat even at the dawn of its existence. The first materials for primitive clothing were animal skins, shoots and leaves of plants, which the ancient inhabitants wove by hand. Historians know that already in the period of the VIII-III millennia BC, practical properties of flax and cotton were known to mankind.

• In ancient Greece and Rome grown, from which fibers were extracted and the first coarse canvases were woven.
• In ancient India for the first time they began to produce, which were generously decorated with bright printed patterns.
• Silk fabrics are historical heritage of China.
• And the first wool fibers and, accordingly, fabrics from them, arose during ancient Babylon, in the IV millennium BC.

History of weaving: a time machine

The history of weaving originates in Asia and Ancient Egypt, where the loom was invented. This apparatus was a frame with several slats, on which the warp threads were stretched. Weft threads were woven into them by hand. Principles of operation of the first machine preserved in today's weaving industry. However, the design itself has gone through many changes.

Much later, in The horizontal loom was invented in the 11th century AD, on which the warp threads were stretched horizontally. The structure of the unit was more complex. The main parts were fixed on a large wooden frame of the machine:

• 3 rollers;
• 2 foot pedals;
• vertical frames of the "comb" reed;
• shuttle with thread.

Our ancestors began to mechanize the machine in the 16th-18th centuries, and the greatest success was the invention in 1733 of the so-called aircraft machine by J. Kay. Half a century later, the British E. Cartwright invented a mechanical loom, in the design of which further changes and improvements. By the end of the 19th century, there were mechanical machines with automatic replacement of shuttles.

And already in the 20th century, shuttleless machines similar to our modern models were invented.

Types of looms

As it became clear from the previous section, looms are shuttle and shuttleless, more modern.

Types of shuttleless looms are distributed depending on the principle of weaving the weft thread.

1.Introduction…………………………………………………………………… 3

2. Weaving craft ………………………………………………………...4-11

The history of weaving……………………………………..4-5

The device of the loom………………………………………...6-7

Memoirs of people who are familiar with weaving...8-11

3. Conclusion……………………………………………………………..12

4. Applications…………………………………………………………….13-21

Introduction

I've had the idea of ​​writing this piece for a long time. There are many different exhibits in our school museum, but one struck me with its size. When I saw it, I immediately had many questions: what kind of object was it, what was done on it, who worked on it, and how does it work? It was a loom. Unfortunately, he was not working. That's when I decided to learn about the loom and weaving as much as possible and write a small work about it, so that later I could tell everyone about it.

Objective:

To draw attention to the revival of interest in folk crafts, in weaving. Find out as much as you can about this activity.

Work tasks:

1. Find the necessary material on the topic and analyze it

2. Talk to the inhabitants of the village of Kiverichi, who are familiar with the principle of the loom. And based on their stories, try yourself as a weaver.

3. Find products that were made on the machine, arrange a small exhibition.

The relevance of the work.

Previously, manual labor was used to make textile products. Later came the loom. It was in almost every house and girls worked on it, weaving various fabrics. They were very beautiful. But with the advent of factories and manufactories, the loom began to be used less and less, and was unfairly forgotten. Fabrics began to be bought in stores. And now many do not know what a loom is and what wonderful products can be created on it.

Literature review.

http://mirnovogo.ru/tkackij-stanok - from this Internet source I took information about the history of the loom.

https://olsha5.livejournal.com/7739.html - from this website I took information about the structure of the loom

Main part.

The history of the loom

Folk crafts are one of the forms of folk art, production art products which date back to antiquity, to home crafts and rustic crafts.

The loom is a machine that produces threads different kinds fabrics and linens. (Appendix 1) There are a huge number of types and models of machine tools: manual, mechanical and automatic, shuttle and shuttleless, multi-link and single-link, flat and round. Looms are also distinguished by the types of fabric produced - woolen and silk, cotton, iron, glass and others.

The history of the creation of a weaving loom goes back to ancient times. Before learning how to weave, people learned to weave simple mats from branches and reeds. And only having mastered the technique of weaving, they thought about the possibility of interlacing the threads. The first fabrics from wool and linen began to be made more than five thousand years ago BC. According to historical information, the birthplace of the loom is Egypt (Appendix 2). In ancient Egypt, fabric was made on simple weaving frames. The frame consisted of two wooden poles, well fixed in the ground parallel to each other. Threads were stretched on the poles, with the help of a rod, the weaver lifted every second thread, immediately stretched out the ducks. Later, the frames had a transverse beam (navoi), from which the warp threads hung almost to the ground. At the bottom, suspensions were attached to them so that the threads would not tangle.

In 1550 BC, the vertical loom was invented. (Appendix 3) The weaver passed the weft with a thread tied through the warp so that one hanging thread was on one side of the weft, and the next on the other. Thus, odd warp threads were on top of the transverse thread, and even ones were on the bottom, or vice versa. This method completely repeated the weaving technique and took a lot of time and effort.

Soon, the ancient masters came to the conclusion that, having found a way to simultaneously raise even or odd rows of the warp, it would be possible to immediately stretch the wefts through the entire warp, and not through each thread individually the entire warp.

Only in 1733, John Kay, a cloth maker from England, invented a mechanical shuttle for a loom, which became a revolutionary breakthrough in the history of the development of the textile industry. The need to transfer the shuttle manually disappeared, it became possible to produce wide fabrics. After all, before the width of the canvas was limited by the length of the hand of the master. In 1785, Edmund Cartwright patented his foot operated mechanical loom. The imperfection of Cartwright's early mechanical looms did not pose much of a threat to hand weaving until the early 19th century. However, they began to improve and modify it, and by the 30s of the 19th century, the number of machines in factories increased, and the number of workers serving them was rapidly decreasing.

Weaving is an ancient craft, the history of which begins with the period of the primitive communal system and accompanies mankind at all stages of development.

Since ancient times in Russia there was a traditional, home-made weaving, which played an important role in the life of the peasants. Every woman in the house from an early age knew how to weave clothes, belts, ribbons, towels, tablecloths, bedspreads, curtains, rugs and much more ... (Appendix 4) Craftswomen strove to create not only useful, but also beautiful things with their own hands. The decor, color combination, ornamental motifs carried a symbolic meaning in every thing and served not only in everyday life, but were also used for rituals and national ceremonies. (Appendix 5) Flax, hemp, wool (goat or sheep) were used as raw materials. To begin with, the raw materials were grown, processed, bleached, dyed and spun. And only after that they started the laborious and attention-consuming process of weaving.

Acquainted with the history of the emergence of the loom. You can find out in detail what parts the loom consists of and what they are for.

Almost everything we wear is woven from threads. Cotton, wool, linen or synthetic. And the threads are turned into a fabric using a loom. And it is clear that without this wonderful device, we would look something completely different. Let us pay tribute to the mechanism that has largely woven our history...

The advent of looms

Weaving machines appeared in ancient times. Among the many peoples among the many peoples of Europe, Asia and America. The first loom was vertical. It was a simple frame on which warp threads were stretched. The lower ends of these threads hung freely almost to the ground. So that they do not get tangled, they were pulled with suspensions. The weaver held a large shuttle with thread in his hands and interlaced the warp. This method literally repeated the technique of weaving and required a lot of time. Then the ancient masters noticed that this process could be simplified. If it were possible to lift all the even or odd warp threads at the same time, the master could immediately pull the shuttle through the entire warp. So a primitive device for separating threads, a remez, was invented. At first, a simple wooden rod served as a remez, to which the lower ends of the warp threads were attached through one. Pulling the remez on himself, the master immediately separated all the even threads from the odd ones, and then threw the shuttle over the entire warp with one throw. True, during the reverse movement, I had to go through all the even threads one by one again. At the same time, it was impossible to simply lead the second remez, because the first one would get in his way. Then laces were tied to the weights at the lower ends of the threads. The second ends of the laces were attached to the remez boards, even to one, odd to the other. Now remez did not interfere with mutual work. Pulling either one or the other remez, the master successively separated either even or odd threads. Work has accelerated tenfold. The manufacture of fabrics ceased to be weaving and became weaving itself.

Now, with the help of laces, it was possible to use not two, but more straps. As a result, it became possible to obtain not a monophonic, but an ornamented fabric. The first evidence of the appearance of machine tools with loads refers to the region of Anatolia and Syria. Cargoes dating from 7-6 millennium BC were found there. The earliest depictions of a loom and working weavers are found on the walls of the tomb of Chemotep in Egypt. The age of these drawings is about 4000 years.

peoples South America used a machine with weights around the thousandth year BC. Such a machine was also known in ancient Hellas. He was often depicted on Greek vases from the 6th to 5th centuries BC.

In subsequent centuries, various improvements were made to the loom. For example, the movement of the remez began to be controlled by the feet with the help of pedals, leaving the hands of the weaver free. However, the basic technique of weaving did not change until the 18th century.

The origin of the simplest horizontal machine is lost in the mists of time. In the 11th century, an improved design appeared in China, which has come down to us with minor changes. The warp threads on such a loom were stretched horizontally, hence its name. On the vertical machine the width of the fabric did not exceed half a meter, and in order to obtain wider strips of fabric, they had to be sewn together.

In turn, the horizontal machine not only increased the speed of fabric production, but also made it possible to increase the width of the resulting fabric indefinitely. Already in the 12th century, a complex loom came to Italy through Damascus and was further improved there. For example, with the help of a hanging comb, they began to align the threads.

Mechanical loom

Mechanical loom

In 1272, in Bologna, a method of mechanical twisting of threads was invented, which for the next three hundred years, local weavers kept in the strictest confidence. But the task of inventing a mechanical loom seemed insurmountable until the 18th century. Not even Leonardo da Vinci could invent the mechanical loom. Only in 1733, a young English mechanic John Kay made the first mechanical shuttle for a loom. In Russia, such a shuttle was called an airplane, because the invention eliminated the need to manually throw the shuttle and made it possible to produce wide fabrics on a machine serviced by one weaver.

At that time, Kay's invention did not arouse the support of either English industrialists or weavers, and the London Society of Arts and Industry generally stated that they did not know a single person who would understand how to use these shuttles.

Kay's work was continued by Oxford graduate, Anglican church minister and poet Edmund Cartwright. In 1785, he received a patent for a mechanical foot-operated loom and built a spinning and weaving mill in Yorkshire for twenty such devices. Already by the thirties of the 19th century, a lot of technical innovations were added to the Cartwright machine. There were more and more such machines in the factories, and ever fewer workers served them. In Russia, the first mechanical looms appeared already at the end of the 18th century. In 1798, the Alexander Manufactory was established in St. Petersburg - the first textile factory in Russia.

The most laborious when working on machine tools were changing and charging the shuttle. In addition, the weaver had to constantly monitor the breakage of the main thread and stop the machine to eliminate the shortcomings. It was not until James Northrop invented a way to automatically load the shuttle in 1890 that factory weaving made a real breakthrough. As early as 1894, Northrop's firm developed and brought to market the first automatic loom. A serious competitor to the automatic loom appeared next - a weaving machine without a shuttle at all, which greatly increased the possibility of servicing several devices by one person.

With the advent of the mechanical loom came new era. If the Middle Ages was the time of the lone artisan, now weaving has become the first sphere of mass production in history. Weaving workshops began to grow into factories. The rapid development of the cotton industry caused a rapid influx of people into weaving. This craft was taught in prisons, homes for the poor, orphanages.

All this gave rise to those social changes in European society that the classics of Marxism described in such detail - the alienation of the worker from his work, the sweatshop system, strikes, lockouts and other methods of class struggle. Indeed, we see that long before historical materialism, weavers were at the forefront of the struggle of the working people for their rights. Here you have the strike of weavers in Flanders in 1245, and the weaving mutiny in the Flemish city of Ypres in 1280, and the Ludice pogroms of weaving machines of the 18th century. Then came the Eleon uprisings of the thirties of the 19th century, and the first revolutionary councils in Ivanovo in 1905. All this was the work of weavers. So if you like, the loom is the main engine of the class struggle, if there really was such a thing.

April 4, 1785 Englishman Cartwright received a patent for a mechanical loom. The name of the inventor of the first loom is unknown. However, the principle laid down by this man is still alive: the fabric consists of two systems of threads located mutually perpendicular, and the task of the machine is to intertwine them.
The first fabrics, made more than six thousand years ago, in the Neolithic era, have not reached us. However, evidence of their existence - the details of the loom - can be seen.

At first, the threads were interlaced with the help of manual force. Even Leonardo da Vinci, no matter how hard he tried, could not invent a mechanical loom.

Until the 18th century, this task seemed insurmountable. And only in 1733, a young English cloth maker John Kay made the first mechanical (aka aircraft) shuttle for a hand loom. The invention eliminated the need to manually thread the shuttle and made it possible to produce wide fabrics on a machine operated by one person (previously two were required).

Kay's work was continued by the most successful weaving reformer, Edmund Cartwright.

Curiously, he was a pure humanist by training, an Oxford graduate with a Master of Arts degree. In 1785, Cartwright took out a patent for a mechanical foot-operated loom and built a spinning and weaving mill in Yorkshire for 20 such devices. But he did not stop there: in 1789 he patented a combing machine for wool, and in 1792 - a machine for twisting ropes and ropes.
The Cartwright machine in its original form was still so imperfect that it did not pose any serious threat to hand weaving.

Therefore, until the first years of the 19th century, the position of the weavers was incomparably better than the spinners, their incomes showed only a barely noticeable downward trend. As early as 1793, "the weaving of kisei was a gentleman's trade. The weavers looked like high-ranking officers in all their appearance: in fashionable boots, a ruffled shirt and with a cane in their hand, they went for their work and sometimes brought it home in a carriage.

In 1807, the British Parliament sent a memorandum to the government stating that the inventions of the Master of Arts contributed to the welfare of the country (and this is true, England was not called “the workshop of the world” for nothing).

In 1809, the House of Commons allocated 10,000 pounds to Cartwright - money that was completely unthinkable at that time. After that, the inventor retired and settled on a small farm, where he was engaged in the improvement of agricultural machines.
Machine Cartwright almost immediately began to improve and modify. And no wonder, because weaving factories gave serious profits, and not only in England. In the Russian Empire, for example, thanks to the development of weaving in the 19th century, Lodz turned from a small village into a huge city by then standards with a population of several hundred thousand people. Millions of fortunes in the empire often made money precisely in the factories of this industry - just remember the Prokhorovs or Morozovs.
Already by the 30s, a lot of technical improvements were added to the Cartwright machine. As a result, there were more and more such machines in the factories, and ever fewer workers served them.
New obstacles stood in the way of a steady increase in labor productivity. The most time-consuming when working on mechanical machines were the change and charging of the shuttle. For example, when making the simplest chintz on a Platt machine, the weaver spent up to 30% of the time on these operations. Moreover, he had to constantly monitor the breakage of the main thread and stop the machine to eliminate deficiencies. In this state of affairs, it was not possible to expand the service area.

Only after the Englishman Northrop invented a method for automatically charging the shuttle in 1890 did factory weaving make a real breakthrough. Already in 1996, Northrop developed and brought to market the first automatic loom. This further allowed the zealous manufacturers to save considerably on salaries. A serious competitor to the automatic loom appeared next - a weaving machine without a shuttle at all, which greatly increased the possibility of servicing several devices by one person. Modern looms are developing in the computer and automatic directions familiar to many technologies. But the main thing was done more than two centuries ago by the inquisitive Cartwright.