Manual milling machine for removing edge overhangs. Secrets of using PVC edges at the edge banding stage. Longitudinal trimming tool WEGOMA AU93

Everyone knows a fact that often occurs during edge banding - this is melting of the PVC edge, especially for edges up to 1 mm thick.

There is a problem of wavy formation on 2 mm thick edges after scraping, edge delamination from the part, edge roughness of 0.4 mm, whitish edges and many more problems.

It is necessary to understand what the reason is in each specific case deeper than to write off everything on the quality of the edges.

So, you should first consider edge banding process, namely the reasons for the appearance of marriage at this stage in detail, we are talking about using only PVC edges.

The process consists of several stages:

gluing

Facing

Overhangs milling

Cycling

Polishing

Bonding of PVC edges.

Regardless of the type of machine, edge bonding is carried out using glue - melt.

The likelihood of marriage at this stage is very high. In order to avoid problems, you must:

Make the most suitable settings by trial and experiment

Choose a suitable hot melt adhesive, taking into account the type of machine and operating temperature

Take into account the parameters of chipboard (moisture, friability)

The edge melts when glued.

If you also use a feed rate of 2 - 5 m/min, you should apply a more heat-resistant edge, and it must be taken into account that allowable temperatures The edges claimed by suppliers are reduced if the adhesive is applied directly to the tape and not to the part. We recommend changing the working temperature of the glue bath.

After gluing the 0.4 mm edges, the surface roughness appears:

A very common problem, which is also not always related to the quality of the edges. As a rule, it consists in the wrong selection of glue - melt.

The fact is that the density of chipboard greatly affects the gluing process, and depending on this parameter, you need to choose the right glue - melt. Bumpiness on the surface appears at a low density of chipboard with the simultaneous use of unfilled melts.

It will be possible to correct the problem by using a filled adhesive with increased consumption. In this case, not only the tuberosity will disappear, but the bonding strength of the surfaces will also increase.

When gluing, an uneven surface is formed due to the indentation of the chipboard structure:

Such a problem is easily solved. Just move the additional pressure rollers.

Too noticeable seam between the edge and the end of the part.

When gluing PVC edges with a thickness of 1 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm or more, it is recommended to use an unfilled melt adhesive, then the seam will be as thin as possible and almost invisible, in addition, it is necessary to carefully select the tone of the adhesive for visual merging of the adhesive seam of the edge and laminated chipboard.

The edge is melted on curved parts.

This problem is also worth looking at in terms of the type of equipment used and the type of adhesive.

So, for example, for manual machines, when the part moves around a fixed adhesive unit, it is recommended to use melts with a wide temperature range.

For equipment with automatic feed, when the workpiece moves around the gluing unit at a constant speed of 10 - 30 m/min, adhesives with a small temperature range can be used. The use of polyurethane adhesives is recommended when the adhesive unit is manually moved around the product and the adhesive is applied directly to the edgeband.

Milling of overhangs, scraping.

After removing the overhangs, a wavy end remains on the edge.

This problem occurs if the tool (cutter knives) is dull or the rotation speed is insufficient for uniform removal.

Increase cutter speed and decrease edge feed speed. The same thing can happen when scraping: a “wave” on the edge is formed if the scraper (knife) is not sharp enough.

Chips formed at the edges of the edge.

Chips on the PVC edge after milling do not mean that the edge material is very hard or the chalk content is very high.

They may indicate that the speed of rotation of the cutter is set incorrectly and the knives need to be adjusted or sharpened. Perhaps the problem is both at the same time.

Polishing.

In order for the edge of the edge to be well polished, all the remnants of chips, glue, etc. are removed, we recommend polishing along the radius with a cloth polishing wheel with a separating liquid applied to the chipboard surface.

Conclusion:

Based on the above, we recommend that you do not immediately write off bad edge banding for when changing suppliers.

In order to make sure that the edge does not fit, it is necessary to check its use on several modes / machines, check whether the temperature and feed rate are set correctly, take into account the composition of the adhesive and much more.

Of course, the quality of the edges primarily affects the veneering process, based on many years of experience in the supply of edge bands, we recommend that you choose materials based not only on cost, but also on other characteristics.

So, in order not to spoil the product / part at the stage of edge banding, it is necessary:

Choose a reliable partner for the supply of edges

Pay attention to how much the importer works in the market

How many suppliers/factories the importer has (to avoid quality differences from batch to batch).

We offer to solve your problems at the edge banding stage.

You can, without reconfiguring the equipment, use the "LUX" edge, save without loss in quality, using the STANDARD PVC edge. ().

We are happy to solve all the problems that arise, and in case of a color change in the warehouse program / in production, we accept a full refund.

We will be glad to become for you not just a supplier of edging materials, but a reliable partner who strives to help develop your business.

Edging is a basic stage in the process of manufacturing cabinet furniture from board materials. The article about showed the easiest way of edging - manually, using ordinary household tools. There are highly specialized tools designed for edge trimming that can greatly facilitate and speed up the work of a furniture maker.

End trimming tool WEGOMA KG94.

The tool allows you to quickly and accurately cut the end of melamine, PVC or ABS edges up to 1.2 mm thick and up to 54 mm wide with one touch.

The KG94 is made of durable plastic and is equipped with two removable scissor blades. If necessary, the bottoms can be replaced with new ones or sharpened. The fixed knife is adjustable in reach and installation angle, this allows you to set a minimum, uniform gap between the cutting edges of the knives to obtain a high-quality cut.

Photo of the KG94 undercutter from different angles.

The operation of the lever and knives.

The KG94 undercutter is mounted on the part.
To perform cutting, you need to press the lever.

Cutter KG94 in the process of cutting. The lever is partially pressed.

Edge trimmed with tool KG94
In the photo yellow - melamine edge, "Wenge" - ABS.

In the event that the adjacent end of the part had a glued edge, after trimming, sometimes a small influx of glue remains, which is easily removed solvent or by mechanical means.

The tool for longitudinal cutting of an edge of WEGOMA AU93.

The tool is designed for double-sided longitudinal trimming of edges up to 0.5 mm thick and up to 40 mm wide. Two knives work for each edge overhang: the main knife cuts the edge overhang (surplus) flush with the part face, the other one removes the corner chamfer from the edge edge and / or cleans up possible flaws in the operation of the first knife.

Structurally, AU93 consists of two mirror-like plastic elements - half-shells, connected to each other through two guide bushings with springs inside. Each semi-body has three removable, adjustable knives, which allows you to work with either side of the tool, or adjust the sides to work with edging materials of various thicknesses. The main double knife has a setting for fit to the plate. Additional two chamfering knives are adjustable in reach.

Photo of the cutter AU93 from different angles.

Longitudinal cutter in disassembled form. The smaller the edge width, the more you have to compress the springs. When working with chipboard up to 18 mm thick, it makes sense to put the springs weaker, or even remove them altogether.

Semi-hull. The main knife adjusting screw is visible.

Adjusting screw of one of the additional knives.

Set of new knives for AU93. A similar kit is also available for the KG94 end cutter.

The minimum possible thickness of the workpiece is 14 mm.

WEGOMA AU93 in action. Edge melamine (yellow) and ABS (Wenge).

Melamine and ABS edges cut to length.

Based on the results of using these WEGOMA tools in the production of cabinet furniture from laminated chipboard, we can draw the following conclusions.

The WEGOMA KG94 end cutter is a universal, useful and necessary tool. It can be safely recommended to any furniture maker who still uses a knife. The cutter works equally well with melamine, PVC and ABS edging, as well as with HPL plastic used for edging kitchen worktops. With sharp and adjusted knives, the cut is perfect or close to perfect, requiring only light grinding with an emery bar.

Longitudinal edge cutter WEGOMA AU93 in practice does not always show excellent results. When working with a melamine edge, the tool often leaves an inconspicuous, but tactilely felt step, which must be sanded off. Adjustment of the main cutter knives did not lead to the proper result. On the ABS edge, the step problem is almost non-existent. Additional knives do not justify themselves at all, they work with varying degrees of success, depending on the force of pressing the semi-hulls to the material and the point of application of this force. An important advantage of the AU93 longitudinal cutter is that it allows you to comfortably work with long, large-sized parts in any spatial position.

The machine for removing overhangs of edging material is designed to remove overhangs of edging material applied manually or on edge banding machines without a milling unit, on one side and from the end (rolls the corner). Removal of overhangs is made by one cutter set in motion from one electric motor. The rolling roller corresponds to the diameter of the cutter. The milling cutter follows the contour of the workpiece using a rolling roller. Cushioning system prevents the cutter from falling after a milling cycle. The blower system prevents chips from accumulating on the workpiece.

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Designed for double-sided milling of overhangs of edging materials in one pass, applied manually or on edge banding machines without a milling unit. Giving of preparations - manual. Textolite desktop with plastic guides. High-frequency spindle milling units. Fine adjustment of the upper milling unit. Top and bottom roller clamp. Pressing the upper milling unit. Central copier. Machine control panel.

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The manual copying device BOBR 1 is a manual machine equipped with a unit for contour milling the corners of the workpiece freeform. This machine is designed for processing workpieces in small production or as an addition to large production.

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Milling trimming device BOBR 3.1 is a semi-automatic machine. This machine is designed for fine trimming of overhangs of edging materials in small-scale production or as an addition to large-scale production, where fine trimming on workpieces is necessary. Trimming can be done on workpieces that differ from the traditional straight angle of 90 ° - from 36 ° -160 °, i.e. with both acute and obtuse angles.

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The BOBR 4.1 milling machine is designed to remove overhangs of edging materials along the face in small-scale production or as an addition to large-scale production, where it is necessary to remove overhangs on special workpieces. The main advantage of the machine is its simplicity and cost, the availability of high-quality finishing due to the high-frequency motor with a cutter speed of 32,000 rpm. The machine is completed with a mill r=2 mm.

vendor code	Workpiece thickness, mm	Edge thickness, mm	power, kWt	Add to the list	Price

Although it worked well, there was still a minimum play in the sole (no more than 0.3-0.5 mm), which in such a delicate matter as removing overhangs sometimes played cruel jokes with me.

Immediately, I came across a Makita 3707 edging machine in a pawnshop for only 2500 r, so I simply could not pass by. It did not have a special edge base for removing overhangs, like the rest of the equipment, so it traditionally required refinement. That is, the formation of a "step".

For the manufacture of this step, this time a piece of 8 mm plexiglass was used, which I found in the garbage dump)) It used to be a chair, now it will be a router (I now regret that I didn’t collect all the large pieces). Marking is carried out with a sharp awl.

It cuts beautifully on a table saw. That is, we give it a rectangular shape.

The edges of the cut are aligned on a belt grinder.

At the end adjacent to the cutter we form a trapezoid. It would be necessary to make a triangle so that any internal radii could be processed, but then the rigidity of the sole would suffer, so I reasoned that small radii are rare and did not bother.

Attaching to the sole, mark and drill the mounting holes. We deepen them to hide the screw heads. We check this moment separately so that nothing comes out.

We fix the part to the sole (into all available technological holes).

I held it in my hands - not very convenient - there is not enough handle on the sole. In her capacity, I took a handle from a milling cutter, which was used as a . Hammer nut.

The nut also had to be hidden. To do this, with a 25 mm Forstner cutter, I drilled a niche 2 mm deep.

I drilled 4 holes in it for the antennae of the nut. The photo didn't turn out very well.
The nut protruded from the reverse side, and the length of the screw was excessive, so I cut it out of the wreckage and glued the lining under the handle to the glue ... It turned out not as neat as it was intended, but God bless him ....

The handle also had to be supplemented with a flat nut (from the Ikeev table)

It turned out such a fairly rigid structure.

It is not without flaws (I already wrote about the "corner" ...) The aesthetic component also suffered ... the garage fell overnight - did not have time)))))

Now there will be a series of test work. If it does not backlash, like the previous one, then I will leave it unchanged. If you don't like it, I'll make a two-layer sole. The first layer will be on the entire sole, and I will screw the second one from below, at the same time sharpening the tip. So it will be more reliable.